Important Collectors' Wristwatches, P...

Geneva, Hotel Noga Hilton, Oct 16, 2005

LOT 86

?Blois Enamel? William Clay Fecit, London. Made circa 1630. Very fine and exceptionally rare 22K gold and enamel pre-balance spring pendant watch with Blois enameled case. Accompanied by an 18th Century shagreen covered protecting case. To be sold without reserve.

CHF 40,000 - 60,000

EUR 25,000 - 40,000 / USD 32,000 - 50,000

Sold: CHF 189,950

C. Two-body, ?bassine?, fully decorated with multicoloured enameled flowers on a white ground, domed crystal. D. Decorated en suite, white enamel chapter ring with radial Roman numerals. Single gilt brass ?tulip? hand. M. 24 mm., hinged gilt brass full-plate with turned inverted baluster pillars, short four-wheel train, fusee with gut line, verge escapement, plain steel two-arm balance without spring, gilt brass irregular cock pierced and engraved with wild strawberries, secured by a screw, worm screw setting with numbered gold disc. Signed on the backplate. Diam. 29 mm.


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Grading System
Grade:
Case: 3-21

Good

Period

Movement: 3-21*

Good

Period

Overhaul recommended, at buyer's expense

Dial: 3-40-01

Good

HANDS Original

Notes

Provenance: Traditionally by family descent from the contemporary Bishop of Hereford. There can be no doubt that the uniquely decorated case of this watch is a product of the Blois school of enameling. Most likely it was actually made in Blois, since there is little evidence that trained craftsmen set up in business outside France much before 1650, and anyway the techniques were a closely guarded secret. Felibien des Avaux, writing in 1676 ascribes the technique of painting in enamel on enamel to Jean Toutin, a goldsmith from Chateaudun, with a date of 1632. Contemporary records would indicate an earlier date, probably the end of the 1620s. What makes this case such an interesting survival is the fact that it appears to bridge the gap between the earlier extant techniques of simple matt and translucent enameling which can be traced back to the 16th Century, and the fully fledged painting in enamels that characterized the Blois school in the mid-17th Century. The palette of translucent colors is extensive for the period, with six different colors employed to decorate the champlevé flowers and foliage that cover the case and dial. These are laid over an engraved or flinqué gold ground. Four opaque enamels complete the palette, with the white background being further decorated with motifs painted in black. A single flower (fritillary) is picked out in white and powder blue, with the same color being used on the pendant. Painting on enamel in enamel, for which the Blois school is most famed, involved the construction of an exceptionally thin gold framework which was enameled on all surfaces, the inside or counter enamel being an integral part of the structure. This case was made using a different technique. Initially the shell would have been cast or drawn up in considerable thickness, sufficient to support the stresses involved in firing the enamels without distortion. Afterwards, the excess gold would have been recovered by scraping away the interior until only a thin skin remained. Pierre Vilar in his classic work ?A History of Gold and Money 1450 ? 1920?, provides an indication of the enormous value of gold at the time. By his calculation, in 1500, if all the gold in Europe were combined into a block, it would have only measured two meters cube. Although watches of this period are rare by any account, it is certain that many would have been scrapped in subsequent years simply on account of their precious metal content. William Clay Probably working before 1632, and died circa 1662. Never officially elected to the Clockmaker?s Company but was accepted by them. Recorded address ? King?s Street, Westminster ? and took three apprentices, Charles Duffa in 1646, George Fullum in 1649 and Arthur Dove in 1659. Known work includes a superior lantern clock and watches. William Clay is listed in all the leading works covering the period, but since he never became an official member of the nascent Clockmakers? Company, opinions as to his exact working dates vary. According to Britten (6th Edition), he was a brother of the Company between 1640 and 1680 and the maker of a watch presented by Cromwell to a certain Colonel Bagley after the siege of Clonmel. Britten makes record of the fact that certain clock and watchmakers (William Clay included) were accepted as members (brothers) of the Clockmakers? Company after its establishment in 1631. Usually they were already members of another company, most notably the Blacksmiths?. Loomes, in ?The Early English Clockmakers of Great Britain?, confirms that Clay was never officially admitted to the Company, but records that he supported them in their dispute of 1656. It would be logical to assume that membership of any City Company, with its rights and privileges, would be an honour that every craftsman would aspire to. However, there were disadvantages, mainly in the form of financial contributions, known as quarterage, and many attempted to avoid this if reasonable excuse could be found. Bibliography: F.J. Britten, Old Clocks and Watches and Their Makers, 6th Edition, London, 1932. Brian Loomes, The Early Clockmakers of Great Britain, NAG Press, 1981. Pierre Vilar, A History of Gold and Money 1450 ? 1920, Verso, 1991. The present lot was previously sold by Antiquorum Geneva in October 1998, lot 474.