Important Collectors' Wristwatches, P...

Hong Kong, Jul 10, 2005

LOT 328

Audemars Piguet, Brassus and Geneva, retailed by Weill & Harburg, London as No. 8279. London hallmarks for 1923-4. Extremely fine and rare, heavy, 18K gold hunting-cased keyless astronomical minute-repeating watch with perpetual calendar, phases of the moon, and chronograph.

HKD 170,000 - 250,000

EUR 18,000 - 25,000 / USD 22,000 - 32,000

Sold: HKD 184,000

C. Four-body, polished, gold hinged cuvette. D. White enamel, radial Roman numerals, outer minute/seconds divisions with fiveminute/seconds Arabic figures, four sunk subsidiary dials for days of the week, date, months of the four-year leap cycle, and subsidiaryseconds with phases of the moon aperture with moon age. Blued steel ?spade? hands. M. 44 mm (19'''1/2), frosted gilt, 3/4 plate, 39jewels, lateral lever escapement, cut bimetallic compensation balance, Breguet balance spring, repeating on gongs via slide in the band.Movement signed by the retailer, cuvette stamped with the Audemars Piguet mark.Diam. 58 mm.


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Grading System
Grade: AAA

Excellent

Case: 3

Good

Movement: 3*

Good

Overhaul recommended, at buyer's expense

Dial: 3 - 12 - 01

Notes

Audemars Piguet Le Brassus and Geneva. Founded in 1875 by two watchmakers, Jules Audemars and Edward Piguet, aged 24 and 22, under the name ?Audemars Piguet, Manufacture d?Horlogerie?. Jules Audemars was born in Le Brassus in 1851, where he was trained as a watchmaker by master watchmakers of the area. After his apprenticeship, Jules Audemars began work as a ?repasseur? until 1874, then settling in Gimel and opening a small business next to his workshop. He did not obtain the success he was hoping for, probably due to the recession which was then beginning, and eighteen months later he decided to return to Le Brassus, looking for a new situation more in keeping with his exceptional watchmaking skill. Edward Auguste Piguet, born two years after Jules Audemars, received a similar education. Edward completed his formation as a?repasseur? at Charles Capt. The two met in 1875 in Le Brassus. For a time, the two watchmakers worked closely together without legally officializing their partnership. Then, the Audemars Piguet company was officially founded, in 1889. Nevertheless, a brand was registered at the "Office technique de l?Edition et de la Publicité" in Bern, on December, 6, 1882, for movements and watch cases. In the records, Audemars Piguet & Cie is presented as a manufacture active all year long, employing 10 male employees. In 1880, they opened a branch in Geneva, where commercial possibilities were the greatest. Due to his exceptional technical abilities, Jules Audemars was the technical manager of the manufacture. He patented several inventions in Switzerland and in the USA, and traveled extensively, particularly to America, where the potential for trade fascinated him. Edward Piguet was the financial specialist of the firm. The two men managed the company together until 1918, when Jules Audemars died at the age of 67. Edward Piguet died the following year. Certain of their models became symbolic of the skill and technique of Audemars Piguet. One of them, a minute-repeating, perpetual calendar, split-seconds chronograph pocket watch, was presented at the Paris Universal Exhibition in 1889. They also opened stores in Paris, London, Berlin and New York. They made watches of different styles: French, English, German and American, which was a most efficient strategy. They took part in several important exhibitions and fairs. Around 1915, the company started to manufacture wristwatches, which were very fashionable, though still continuing the production of traditional and complicated pocket watches. They made many repeating watches. In 1920, after the death of the two founders, Audemars Piguet created the smallest minute-repeating watch, and, in 1911, the 10??? movement. All Audemars Piguet products were sold in Le Brassus, Geneva, London, Paris, Berlin and New York. The manufacture worked in collaboration with important importers and retailers all over the world. Their clients incéuded, among others: Dent and Frodsham in London, Tiffany in New York, Cartier and Breguet in Paris, Bulgari in Rome, and Dürrstein in Glashütte and Dresden. After the New York Stock Exchange crash in 1929, Audemars Piguet, like other manufactures, lost a large part of their American clientele. 1932 was the worse year in the firm?s history. The manufacture remained the property of the Audemars Piguet families and their descendants. In 1933, the economic situation of the firm was already much improved, and at the start of WWII, the major part of the Audemars Piguet production was sold to the USA. Later, seeing the strong interest from clients for skeleton wristwatches and pocket watches, Audemars Piguet included these among their standard production. They remain such today, as do their famous complicated pocket watches invented over 100 years ago