Important Modern & Vintage Timepieces
Monaco, Jul 19, 2022
LOT 234
AUDEMARS PIGUET
REF. 5402, SELF-WINDING, DATE, CALIBRE 2121; "ROYAL OAK" SO-CALLED "JUMBO", B-SERIES; 18K YELLOW GOLD
EUR 120,000 - 180,000
USD 126,000 - 190,000 / HKD 990,000 - 1,480,000 / CHF 120,000 - 180,000
A very fine and extremely rare, 18K yellow gold, self-winding, “tonneau”-shaped, oversize gentleman’s wristwatch, water-resistant with case-back screwed by eight screws, octagonal ship's porthole-shaped bezel screwed by eight hexagonal "nuts" screws grey colour "tapisserie" dial, with instantaneous date of the month.
| Grading System | |
|---|---|
Grade: |
|
Case: 3-8 |
Good Slightly scratched |
Movement: 2* |
Very good Overhaul recommended, at buyer's expense |
Dial: 2-01 |
Very good HANDS Original |
Brand Audemars Piguet, Le Brassus (Vallée de Joux)
Model “Royal Oak”, so-called “Jumbo”, B-Series
Reference 5402
Year circa 1978
Movement No. 197 594, adjusted to heat, cold, isochronism and 5 positions, 36 jewels, 21K yellow gold rotor
Case No. B 34 716
Material 18K yellow gold
Bracelet integrated 18K yellow gold AP “Royal Oak” bracelet with 18K white gold deployant clasp
Diameter 39.9 mm. (bezel)
Length 175 mm. (approx.)
Caliber 2121 / 1
Height 47.8 mm.
Width 39 mm.
Weight 172.2 gr. (approx.)
Signature dial, case and movement
Notes
Audemars Piguet, “Royal Oak”, Ref. 5402
Launched in 1972 the “Royal Oak” Ref. 5402 was designed by Gérald Genta (1931-2011), four years before the “Nautilus” of Patek Philippe, also designed by Genta.
Nicknamed “Jumbo” by collectors, it owes this nickname to its “tonneau”-shaped case measuring 39 mm., who was very large for the time.
Avant-garde, it was the first all-steel watch considered a luxury watch, more expensive at the time than a dress-watch in precious metal. Another characteristic, its case is made of only two parts: the case-back and the case-band in a single part entirely maintained by the screwed octagonal bezel, allowing a perfect water-resistance.
Reference 5402 houses a version of the highly appreciated Jaeger-LeCoultre 920 movement, the ultra-thin AP 2121 calibre.
This reference has been produced in four series, marked:
Launched in 1972 the “Royal Oak” Ref. 5402 was designed by Gérald Genta (1931-2011), four years before the “Nautilus” of Patek Philippe, also designed by Genta.
Nicknamed “Jumbo” by collectors, it owes this nickname to its “tonneau”-shaped case measuring 39 mm., who was very large for the time.
Avant-garde, it was the first all-steel watch considered a luxury watch, more expensive at the time than a dress-watch in precious metal. Another characteristic, its case is made of only two parts: the case-back and the case-band in a single part entirely maintained by the screwed octagonal bezel, allowing a perfect water-resistance.
Reference 5402 houses a version of the highly appreciated Jaeger-LeCoultre 920 movement, the ultra-thin AP 2121 calibre.
This reference has been produced in four series, marked:
· “A” (approximately 2 000 pieces);
· “B” (between 1 000 and 2 000 pieces);
· “C” and “D”, each of them with small modifications to the bracelet, dial and movement.
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Where does the name “Royal Oak” come from?
At a time when his enemies were in hot pursuit, the future King Charles II of England found refuge in a large hollow oak tree where he lay concealed for some time.
This “Royal Oak” came down in history as the symbol of a powerful force protecting a precious life: as in the case of the four vessels of the Royal Navy, launched in 1802, 1852, 1892 and 1914 that where named after it;
as in the case of our watch which conceals under its armoured case, the most valuable of mechanisms.
What over name could have been more suitable?
Source
Royal Oak, a new performance by Audemars Piguet, Le Brassus and Geneva, 1973.