Important Modern & Vintage Timepieces

Monaco, Jul 19, 2022

LOT 229

AUDEMARS PIGUET
REF. 5402, SELF-WINDING, DATE, CALIBRE 2121; "ROYAL OAK" SO-CALLED "JUMBO", B-SERIES; STAINLESS STEEL

EUR 70,000 - 100,000

USD 74,000 - 106,000 / HKD 580,000 - 830,000 / CHF 71,000 - 102,000

Sold: EUR 91,000

A very fine and very rare, stainless steel, self-winding, “tonneau”-shaped, oversize gentleman's wristwatch, water-resistant with case-back screwed by eight screws, octagonal ship's porthole-shaped bezel screwed by eight hexagonal "nuts" screws, grey colour "tapisserie" dial (AP logo at 6 o’clock), with instantaneous date of the month.


Grading System
Grade: AAA

Excellent

Case: 2

Very good

Movement: 2*

Very good

Overhaul recommended, at buyer's expense

Dial: 2-54-01

Very good

Service dial

HANDS Original

Brand Audemars Piguet, Le Brassus (Vallée de Joux)

Model "Royal Oak", B-Series

Reference 5402 ST

Year sold in October 1975

Movement No. 158 133

Case No. 99 416

Material stainless steel

Bracelet integrated stainless steel AP "Royal Oak" bracelet with deployant clasp

Diameter 39 mm.

Length 190 mm. (approx.)

Caliber 2121, 36 jewels

Length 190 mm. (approx.)

Signature dial, case and movement

Accessories service fitted box and outer box, certificate of authenticity (dated August 17, 2021)

Notes

Audemars Piguet, “Royal Oak”, Ref. 5402

In 1972, Audemars Piguet introduced the “Royal Oak” wristwatch with a first batch of 1 000 pieces, called “Série A” due to the letter “A” engraved on their case-backs. Two years later, additional series were produced under the Ref. 5204 with the letter “B”, “C” and “D”.

The A-series “Royal Oak” is powered by the ultra-thin AP calibre 2121, derived from Jaeger-LeCoultre’s legendary ultra-thin JLC 920 movement.

Designed by the brilliant Gérald Genta (1931-2011), this timepiece bears witness to the 1970s and the emergence of the notion of the sport-luxury watch.

The feature making this watch exceptional is the patinated “caramel” “tapisserie” dial.

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Where does the name “Royal Oak” come from?

At a time when his enemies were in hot pursuit, the future King Charles II of England found refuge in a large hollow oak tree where he lay concealed for some time.

This “Royal Oak” came down in history as the symbol of a powerful force protecting a precious life: as in the case of the four vessels of the Royal Navy, launched in 1802, 1852, 1892 and 1914 that where named after it;
as in the case of our watch which conceals under its armoured case, the most valuable of mechanisms.

What over name could have been more suitable?

Source
Royal Oak, a new performance by Audemars Piguet, Le Brassus and Geneva, 1973.