Important Modern & Vintage Timepieces.

Geneva, Mar 21, 2020

LOT 279


CHF 20,000 - 25,000

USD 20,650 - 25,800 / HKD 160,000 - 200,500

Sold: CHF 26,250

Very rare steel and gold, tonneau shaped, self-winding wristwatch with date at 3.

Click to full view Click to full view
Image Image

Grading System
Grade: AA

Very good

Case: 2-8

Very good

Slightly scratched

Movement: 2*

Very good

Overhaul recommended, at buyer's expense

Dial: 1-01

As new

HANDS Original

Brand Audemars Piguet

Model Royal Oak

Reference Ref. 5402SA

Year Circa 1980

Bracelet Audemars Piguet steel and gold bracelet with deployant clasp

Numbers 623 / B29459

Caliber 2121/1, 263601

Dimensions 39 mm.

Signature Case, dial and movement

Accessories Extract from the Archives


Debuted in 1972 the Royal Oak Reference 5402 was designed by Gerald Genta, 4 years before the Nautilus of Patek Philippe, also designed by Genta.
Nicknamed "Jumbo" by collectors, it owes this nickname to its tonneau-shaped case measuring 39mm. very large for the time. Avant-garde, it was the first all-steel watch considered a luxury watch, more expensive at the time than a dress watch in precious metal. Another characteristic: its case is made of only two parts: the caseback and the caseband in a single part entirely maintained by the screwed octagonal bezel, allowing a perfect water-resistance.
Reference 5402ST houses a version of the highly appreciated Jaeger-Lecoultre 920 movement, the ultra-thin AP 2121 calibre.
This reference has been produced in four series marked: A (approximately 2000 pieces), B (between 1000 and 2000 pieces), C and D, each of them with small modifications to the bracelet, dial and movement.
Series A and B are distinguished by the placement of the "AP" logo above 6 o'clock, compared to the more recent examples generally bearing the "AP" logo at 12 o'clock.
A true watchmaking icon, this gold and steel example is number 623 on the case back, indicating that it is the 623rd Royal Oak produced.
According to the Extract from the Archives, this watch was produced in 1980 and the movement has been changed.