Important Modern & Vintage Timepieces

Monaco, Jan 19, 2023

LOT 59

AUDEMARS PIGUET
REF. 5402SA, SELF-WINDING, DATE; "ROYAL OAK" SO-CALLED, "JUMBO", "B SERIE" RETAILED BY FRED; STAINLESS STEEL AND 18K YELLOW GOLD

EUR 50,000 - 80,000

USD 54,000 - 86,000 / HKD 418,000 - 670,000 / CHF 49,500 - 80,000

Very fine and very rare, stainless steel and 18K yellow gold, self-winding, “tonneau”-shaped, gentleman’s wristwatch, water-resistant with case-back screwed by eight screws, octagonal ship's porthole-shaped bezel screwed by eight hexagonal "nuts" screws, grey colour "tapisserie" dial and date of the month (aperture at 3 o’clock).

Case-back engraved with the name of the French retailer, FRED.


Grading System
Grade: AAA

Excellent

Case: 3-8

Good

Slightly scratched

Movement: 3*

Good

Overhaul recommended, at buyer's expense

Dial: 3-6-8-01

Good

Slightly oxidized

Slightly scratched

HANDS Original

Brand Audemars Piguet, Le Brassus (Vallée de Joux)

Model "Royal Oak", retailed by FRED

Reference 5402SA

Year delivered on October 15, 1982

Movement No. 175 393

Case No. B 27 426

Material stainless steel and 18K yellow gold

Bracelet stainless steel and 18K yellow gold AP bracelet with deployant clasp

Length 150 mm. (approx.)

Caliber 2121/1

Dimensions 39 mm.

Signature dial, case and movement

Accessories Extract from the Archives (copy)

Notes

In 1972, Audemars Piguet launched his iconic “casual chic” model, the "Royal Oak", with a first batch of 1 000 watches called “serie A” due to the letter A engraved on their case-back. Two years later, additional series were produced under the Ref. 5204 with the letter "A", "B", "C" and "D". Eventually, the model was produced in 6 050 units, sold between 1972 and 2002.

The two-tone version was introduced in 1977, under the reference 5402SA. The version is equipped with a slate grey dial with yellow gold hour indexes and hands. It remained unchanged in the catalogue from 1978 to 1985.

The present watch is quite exceptional because it was retailed by FRED, as evidenced by the signature engraved on the case-back. The story between the French jeweller and the "Royal Oak" goes way back to 1976, when Audemars Piguet unveiled to the public in France, the "Lady Royal Oak" Ref. 8638 at an exhibition on rue Royale in Paris. Then, the collaboration between the two companies became official, FRED becoming a certified Audemars Piguet retailer. This draws an interesting chronological and historical line.