Antiquorum Auctioneers since 1974

Geneva, Nov 08, 2026

LOT 352

BREGUET & FILS, FRANCE, "MONTRE SIMPLE À UNE AIGUILLE DITE MONTRE DE SOUSCRIPTION", SOLD TO MONSIEUR NOURY RUBY-SET CYLINDER ESCAPEMENT, GOLD AND SILVER

CHF 18,600 - 37,100

HKD 178,000 - 354,000 / USD 22,500 - 45,000 / EUR 20,000 - 40,000 / JPY 3,560,000 - 7,110,000

TO BE SOLD WITHOUT RESERVE

Sold: CHF 60,480

A very fine large and very rare, gold and silver, manual wind open-face, key-winding, large “Souscription”-type pocket watch. White enamel dial with suspended Breguet numerals and secret signature at 12 o’clock; blued steel Breguet-style pointer hand. Special ruby escapement.

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Grading System
Grade:
Case: 3-6-8

Good

Slightly oxidized

Slightly scratched
Movement: 3*

Good

Overhaul recommended, at buyer's expense
Dial: 3-71-01

Good

ENAMEL AND VARIOUS TYPES OF DECORATION Hairlines

HANDS Original

Brand Breguet & Fils, France

Model "MONTRE SIMPLE À UNE AIGUILLE DITE MONTRE DE SOUSCRIPTION"

Year Sold to Monsieur Noury the 19 Thermidor an 9 ( 7 august 1801)

Movement No. 816

Case No. 816 (by Jean-Louis Joly, Paris)

Caliber 57 mm., "Souscription"-calibre, gilded brass, with central going barrel wound from the front only, overhanging ruby-set cylinder escapement, monometallic balance (gilded brass) and blued steel flat hairspring, index regulator with temperature compensating bimetallic curb fitted to the index regulator, top pivot with parachute

Diameter 62 mm.

Weight 153 gr.

Signature Dial, case and movement

Accessories Accompanied by the original box, copy of Breguet certificate dated 31 November 1994, original Breguet gold chain and Breguet gold ratchet key.

Notes

Breguet’s“Souscription”

Abraham-Louis Breguet (1747-1823) conceived of the idea for the “souscription” watch in 1794. It was one of the many “inventions” resulting from his period of forced exile in Switzerland during the French Revolution. The concept was both simple and brilliant: to offer his clients a watch that was ordered in advance and delivered upon completion.

In silver, with the gold rims being the only decoration, the “souscription” watches were of a large diameter allowing the enamel dial to be divided in such a way that both hours and minutes could be read from a single hand. The movements had a single plate, the spring barrel mounted in the centre and the wheels elegantly positioned and retained by bridges. The single hand was driven directly off the barrel arbour, eliminating the motion work and the intendant friction, and the ruby cylinder escapement was fitted with a parachute (shock protector) and a compensation curb to assist in correcting temperature errors; features that were the norm for all of Breguet’s first class watches.

To further reduce the selling price, Breguet decided to produce these watches in small series (between 12 and 20 examples at a time), with the buyers paying an account of 25% in advance and the balance on completion. Hence the term “de souscription” (by subscription).

The success of these watches enabled Breguet to both re-establish his business, which had understandably been badly affected by the French Revolution and his exile, and to finance much of his research into other areas of horology.

Breguet will then produce some gold “souscriptions” and others “à tact”.

The success of these timepieces encouraged other watchmakers – whether pupils of the master or not – to produce them. While these were duly signed by these watchmakers (such as Charles Oudin), others produced them by forging Breguet’s signature. These watches were often produced in Switzerland (Geneva or the Neuchâtel mountains).