Notes
Provenance/Condition: Rediscovered some seven years ago, this
watch had apparently remained in the possession of a French
emigre family for several generations. The movement was working
in all aspects, but the weight and winding arm connections had been
removed. These have been replaced. The case and dial had been
changed in 1834/36, a date confirmed by the fact that the case
maker L S (Leopold Secheret) entered his mark in Paris in May
1834, and the 18K mark (a Bull) ceased in 1836. Although the case
is signed and titled, it is unnumbered, and as yet has not been traced
in any records to confirm its origins. Case and dial are offered with
the lot. After considerable research a case to the exact style and size
of pe>petuelle watch No. 14 was constructed. Although the
whereabouts of No.14 are currently unknown, it is described and
drawn with dimensions by Count Axel von Fersen in his letter to
Breguet of 13 March 1794, in which he states that the watch was
given to him by Marie Antoinette in " about 1794 or 1795 " and that
the number was engraved "right inside the case'. An enamel dial of
period style was also made.
Technical: As mentioned in the heading, there are two distinct
elements involved in the technical characteristics of this watch: the
significance of the caliber itself in the context ol Breguet's work, and
its individual specification in comparison with the later series of
Petpetuellewatches. In the first case, the movement is of an integrated
design, and not a combination of technical complications built onto
a conventional "full-plate " caliber. At the time of its manufacture,
watches that were small, relatively flat and complicated were by no
means the norm, and Breguet made use of every available space to
achieve this result. The balance is moved under the dial and the
repeating work compressed into a space around the pendant to
allow the weight maximum oscillation on the back plate. With this
design and at such an early date, Breguet had already adopted most
of the principles that were to characterise his future work.
More specifically, No.1 - 8/82 illustrates its early date by certain
features that were to be updated or improved in subsequent models
produced in greater numbers. Despite its diminutive size, this
movement is fitted with twin barrels wound in tandem, and driving
through a common pinion. The later models were of course larger,
and benefited from a heavier weight which provided an increased
movable mass. They incorporated banking springs, needed to
absorb the force at the end of each oscillation and assist in the
return motion, whereas this watch relies on two pins on the barrel
bridge against which the pivot arm itself is brought to rest. The
escapement is of the earliest type: steel cylinder, plain balance, flat
spring, no parachute. The movement is hinged into the case with
two retaining methods; a conventional sprung nib and an optional
locking screw accessed from under the dial, which is itself secured in
the conventional manner by screws through the side of the dial plate
ri m. Access to the back of the movement is required in order to
adjust the regulator, a task accomplished in later examples by means
of a screw through the edge ol the dial plate".
History: It is well known that the extraordinarily detailed records of
watches made by Breguet began with the advent of his partnership
with Andre Gide in 1787. In tandem with the manufacturing and
sales registers, there exist the records of watches returned or service
and repair. In the former are recorded the series of perpelmmelles
begun in 1787 and completed over the next 20 years (the extended
period being in large part clue to the disruption caused by the
French Revolution), and a further series of sell-winding watches,
several of extra-flat caliber. Watches macle prior to the books have
therefore been difficult to authenticate and particularly to date with
any degree of certainty. Only recently has a complete reevaluation of
the manufacturing registers, and notably the repair books and
company documents revealed more about Breguet' s work from 1780
onwards.
It has now been discovered that Perpdtuelle No. 1 - 8/82 was
returned fur service on two occasions - firstly in 1792, and again in
1794. It was recorded in the name of a Citoyen Dutartre on each
occasion. These same repair books record other /erpetuelles that may
date from the period before the manufacturing books began. Most
significant of these is a perpetuelle belonging to the Duc d ' Orleans,
which returns on more than one occasion and is entered without a
number. Various documents pertaining to Breguet note that the first
pee tuelle was delivered to the Duc dOrleans, circa 1780, and it
seems very possible that this was the unnumbered watch - perhaps a
prototype - recorded in the repair book for the period 1792-1794.
It has been further established beyond doubt that Perpeurelle No. 2
- 10/82 was the property of Queen Marie-Antoinette, and indeed
Mr. Brown, former owner of Breguet did issue a certificate to that
effect to the Revd. W.B. Hawkins iii 1883 who was at that time owner
of the watch (current whereabouts unknown). Another watch,
entered as perpetuelleNo.l was also returned by a Mine. de Buflon for
service on one occasion at the same time as No.1- 8/82, but no
details as to its date are known. Perpetielle No. 1 8/82, now offered
for sale, is the earliest " perpetuelle ' that is known to survive.
We are very grateful to Emmanuel Brcguet, whose complete
reevaluation of the Breguet records during the preparation of his
book:Breguet Horlogcr depuis 1775, Alain de Gourcuff Editeur
Paris`, 1997 celebrating the 250th anniversary of Breguet 's birth, has
enabled the authentication of watch No. 1 8/82.
Due to the very recent discovery of a record of this watch, it has not
been possible to research any details on the Citoyen Dutartre (sic)
who returned the watch for servicing in the years 1792 and 1794.
This was almost exactly 10 years after its manufacture, and there is
no evidence at this time to confirm whether he was indeed the man
for whom the watch was originally made Alfred Chapuis and
Eugene Jaquet, in his book " La Montre Automatique Ancienne ' ",
refers to a Breguet note, apparently recopied by Moinet, about the
first self winding watches: Ces premiers ouvrages liurent le
perfectionnement des montre.s perpetuelles qu ' il fit vers 1780 pour
Madame la Duchcs.se de 1'Inlantado, Mgr. 1c Duc d ' Orlean.s, et S.M.
la Reine Marie-Antoinette (made in about 1780 for the Duchess of
Infantado, the Duke of Orleans and Her Majesty Queen Marie
Antoinette). It is proven that the watch immediately following No. 1
8/82 belonged to the Queen, and the evidence mentioned above
confirms that the Duc ct 'Orleans owned such a watch - apparently
unnumbered which would indicate a very early date (the Duc was to
own several " perpetuelles" in following years). It may therefore well
he the case that No.1 was also supplied originally to a well known
personage or member of the Court circle that patronised Breguet in
his early career, and passed into the hands of Citoyen Dutartre in
the intervening years. Further research could provide the answer,
but it does seem certain that Perpetuelle No. 18/82 is the earliest
dateable example, and currently the earliest dateable horological
item of any type made by Breguet.
Bibliography:
' For details of the construction of the pecpauelles and numerous
illustrations see: G. Daniels, The Art of Breguet , Sotheby Parke
Bernet, London 1975.
A.Chapuis, C.Breguet, La Reine Marie Antoinette, Fersen and
Breguet, La Suisse Horlogerie, No.8, February 1958 - facsimile
provided.
E. Breguet, Breguet Horloger depuis 1775, Alain de Gourcuff
Editeur, Paris, 1997.
A. Chapuis and E. Jaquet, La Monte Automatique Ancienne,
Editions du Griffon, Neuchatel 1952, p. 75.