Important Watches, Wristwatches and C...

Geneva, Hotel Des Bergues, Oct 18, 1997

LOT 5

Breguet a Paris, Perpetuelle No.1 - 8/82, Invente, perfectionne et execute par Breguet, completed in August 1782. Highly important 18K gold dumb quarter repeating self-winding watch, with 60 hour power reserve indication, certainly one of the very first ever made by Breguet.

CHF 0 - 0

C. Double body, Louis XVI, polished. D. White enamel dial with Breguet numerals, outer minute ring and up-and-down sector. Gold Breguet hands. M. Hinged inverted gilt brass full plate with cylindrical pillars, two going barrels alternatively wound by means of a self-winding oscillating ogival platinum weight, pivoted on the edge of the back plate, the oscillation limited by two banking pins and locked automatically by a rising arm when spring are fully wound. Five wheel train with an intermediate wheel to enable a 60 hour going period. Cylinder escapement, plain brass three-arm balance set on the front plate, beneath the dial, blued steel flat balance spring with regulator counter sunk in the back plate. Repeating on the edge of the case by depressing the pendant. Signed on the dial, back plate and with inscription on the gilt dial plate. With Breguet certificate. Diam. 44 mm.


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Notes

Provenance/Condition: Rediscovered some seven years ago, this watch had apparently remained in the possession of a French emigre family for several generations. The movement was working in all aspects, but the weight and winding arm connections had been removed. These have been replaced. The case and dial had been changed in 1834/36, a date confirmed by the fact that the case maker L S (Leopold Secheret) entered his mark in Paris in May 1834, and the 18K mark (a Bull) ceased in 1836. Although the case is signed and titled, it is unnumbered, and as yet has not been traced in any records to confirm its origins. Case and dial are offered with the lot. After considerable research a case to the exact style and size of pe>petuelle watch No. 14 was constructed. Although the whereabouts of No.14 are currently unknown, it is described and drawn with dimensions by Count Axel von Fersen in his letter to Breguet of 13 March 1794, in which he states that the watch was given to him by Marie Antoinette in " about 1794 or 1795 " and that the number was engraved "right inside the case'. An enamel dial of period style was also made. Technical: As mentioned in the heading, there are two distinct elements involved in the technical characteristics of this watch: the significance of the caliber itself in the context ol Breguet's work, and its individual specification in comparison with the later series of Petpetuellewatches. In the first case, the movement is of an integrated design, and not a combination of technical complications built onto a conventional "full-plate " caliber. At the time of its manufacture, watches that were small, relatively flat and complicated were by no means the norm, and Breguet made use of every available space to achieve this result. The balance is moved under the dial and the repeating work compressed into a space around the pendant to allow the weight maximum oscillation on the back plate. With this design and at such an early date, Breguet had already adopted most of the principles that were to characterise his future work. More specifically, No.1 - 8/82 illustrates its early date by certain features that were to be updated or improved in subsequent models produced in greater numbers. Despite its diminutive size, this movement is fitted with twin barrels wound in tandem, and driving through a common pinion. The later models were of course larger, and benefited from a heavier weight which provided an increased movable mass. They incorporated banking springs, needed to absorb the force at the end of each oscillation and assist in the return motion, whereas this watch relies on two pins on the barrel bridge against which the pivot arm itself is brought to rest. The escapement is of the earliest type: steel cylinder, plain balance, flat spring, no parachute. The movement is hinged into the case with two retaining methods; a conventional sprung nib and an optional locking screw accessed from under the dial, which is itself secured in the conventional manner by screws through the side of the dial plate ri m. Access to the back of the movement is required in order to adjust the regulator, a task accomplished in later examples by means of a screw through the edge ol the dial plate". History: It is well known that the extraordinarily detailed records of watches made by Breguet began with the advent of his partnership with Andre Gide in 1787. In tandem with the manufacturing and sales registers, there exist the records of watches returned or service and repair. In the former are recorded the series of perpelmmelles begun in 1787 and completed over the next 20 years (the extended period being in large part clue to the disruption caused by the French Revolution), and a further series of sell-winding watches, several of extra-flat caliber. Watches macle prior to the books have therefore been difficult to authenticate and particularly to date with any degree of certainty. Only recently has a complete reevaluation of the manufacturing registers, and notably the repair books and company documents revealed more about Breguet' s work from 1780 onwards. It has now been discovered that Perpdtuelle No. 1 - 8/82 was returned fur service on two occasions - firstly in 1792, and again in 1794. It was recorded in the name of a Citoyen Dutartre on each occasion. These same repair books record other /erpetuelles that may date from the period before the manufacturing books began. Most significant of these is a perpetuelle belonging to the Duc d ' Orleans, which returns on more than one occasion and is entered without a number. Various documents pertaining to Breguet note that the first pee tuelle was delivered to the Duc dOrleans, circa 1780, and it seems very possible that this was the unnumbered watch - perhaps a prototype - recorded in the repair book for the period 1792-1794. It has been further established beyond doubt that Perpeurelle No. 2 - 10/82 was the property of Queen Marie-Antoinette, and indeed Mr. Brown, former owner of Breguet did issue a certificate to that effect to the Revd. W.B. Hawkins iii 1883 who was at that time owner of the watch (current whereabouts unknown). Another watch, entered as perpetuelleNo.l was also returned by a Mine. de Buflon for service on one occasion at the same time as No.1- 8/82, but no details as to its date are known. Perpetielle No. 1 8/82, now offered for sale, is the earliest " perpetuelle ' that is known to survive. We are very grateful to Emmanuel Brcguet, whose complete reevaluation of the Breguet records during the preparation of his book:Breguet Horlogcr depuis 1775, Alain de Gourcuff Editeur Paris`, 1997 celebrating the 250th anniversary of Breguet 's birth, has enabled the authentication of watch No. 1 8/82. Due to the very recent discovery of a record of this watch, it has not been possible to research any details on the Citoyen Dutartre (sic) who returned the watch for servicing in the years 1792 and 1794. This was almost exactly 10 years after its manufacture, and there is no evidence at this time to confirm whether he was indeed the man for whom the watch was originally made Alfred Chapuis and Eugene Jaquet, in his book " La Montre Automatique Ancienne ' ", refers to a Breguet note, apparently recopied by Moinet, about the first self winding watches: Ces premiers ouvrages liurent le perfectionnement des montre.s perpetuelles qu ' il fit vers 1780 pour Madame la Duchcs.se de 1'Inlantado, Mgr. 1c Duc d ' Orlean.s, et S.M. la Reine Marie-Antoinette (made in about 1780 for the Duchess of Infantado, the Duke of Orleans and Her Majesty Queen Marie Antoinette). It is proven that the watch immediately following No. 1 8/82 belonged to the Queen, and the evidence mentioned above confirms that the Duc ct 'Orleans owned such a watch - apparently unnumbered which would indicate a very early date (the Duc was to own several " perpetuelles" in following years). It may therefore well he the case that No.1 was also supplied originally to a well known personage or member of the Court circle that patronised Breguet in his early career, and passed into the hands of Citoyen Dutartre in the intervening years. Further research could provide the answer, but it does seem certain that Perpetuelle No. 18/82 is the earliest dateable example, and currently the earliest dateable horological item of any type made by Breguet. Bibliography: ' For details of the construction of the pecpauelles and numerous illustrations see: G. Daniels, The Art of Breguet , Sotheby Parke Bernet, London 1975. A.Chapuis, C.Breguet, La Reine Marie Antoinette, Fersen and Breguet, La Suisse Horlogerie, No.8, February 1958 - facsimile provided. E. Breguet, Breguet Horloger depuis 1775, Alain de Gourcuff Editeur, Paris, 1997. A. Chapuis and E. Jaquet, La Monte Automatique Ancienne, Editions du Griffon, Neuchatel 1952, p. 75.