Important Wristwatches, Watches & Clocks

Hong Kong, Hotel Furama Kempinski, May 26, 1991

LOT 198

Breguet, Ref. 4358, 1950's, specially made for La Marine Nationale et l'Aéronautique Navale No. 423 (Type 20 5101/54), returned on 10.6 1968 for repair. Fine and rare, stainless steel gentleman's wristwatch, with round button "retour en vol" chronograph and 15 minute register.

C. polished, screwed back, waterproof, antimagnetic protecting cap, reeded revolving bezel. D. black, with radiumed Arabic numerals + auxiliary seconds and 15 minute register dials. " Skeleton" radiumed hands. M. 14"' Valjoux, rhodiumed, 17 jewels, lever escapement, monometallic balance, self-compensating Breguet balance-spring. Dial, case and movement signed. In very good condition. Diam. 38 mm. Note: The last model of the Breguet Type 20 wristwatch, and the rarest, were those made for the CEV (Centre d'Essai en Vol). This centre, responsible for the testing and homologation of all new aeroplanes, was supplied with all models of the Breguet chronograph, both Marine and Aviation types, differing only in the marks stamped on the back: CEV followed by a number below 500 indicating that no more than 500 of each series was supplied to the service. At the same time, the CEV also received the most complicated of all the French Military watches: the "Three register" Breguet chronograph, developed from the Navy model, with both 15 minute and 12 hour registers, as well as a continuous subsidiary seconds. An additional feature was the adjustable bezel graduated for 12 hours. The type 20 5101 /54 (signifying the number and year of the contract) was usually made with a large hall-shaped crown, enabling the watch to be wound by a pilot whilst wearing gloves. However, any advantage gained by making the watch easy to wind, was generally outweighed by the problems of the button catching on clothing under rough conditions, and the majority have been fitted with a more conventional winding crown. The title retour en vol, refers to the instantaneous fly-back feature of the chronograph work. A single push on the lower chronograph button, zero 's the chronograph hand whilst still in motion, which then restarts immediatly. Avoiding the need for a pilot to break concentration from the controls of the plane.