Exceptional Horological Works of Art

Geneva, Oct 19, 2002

LOT 128

Breguet, No. 2090, enamel by Lallemand, production started 1806, sold to Esseyd Aly Effendi on September 16, 1808 for 3,360 francs. Extremely fine and very rare 22K gold and enamel pair-cased "cabriolet" double-train grande et petite sonnerie clockwatch with independent quarter-repeating, accompanied by a certificate and copies of the manufacturing register.

CHF 1 - 1

EUR 1 - 1

Sold: CHF 531,500

C. By master casemaker Amy Gros No. 894, outer: two body, entirely covered with translucent scarlet enamel over engine-turning with sunburst pattern at the back, center decorated with gold paillon star and a crescent within paillon sunburst rosette, border with superbly made gold paillon foliate wreath, bezels with champlevé blue, green, yellow enamel forming foliate and floral pattern against translucent scarlet enamel over parallel flinqué pattern, the back cover engraved inside: "Hadji Assim Effendi". Inner: two-body, also entirely in translucent scarlet enamel, back cover over sunburst engine-turning centered with gold paillon foliate rosette, gold paillon twist-rope pattern at the edge, bezels with champlevé azure enamel and gold scrolling and foliate pattern on a translucent scarlet enamel over flinqué ground. The inner case can be turned in the outer case so that the watch can be used either as an open-face or a hunter. Gold detachable cuvette. D. White enamel with gilt Islamic numerals. Blued steel Breguet hands. M. 47 mm. (21???), gilt brass full plate double-train with two barrels retained by a single bridge, overhanging ruby cylinder escapement, gilt three-arm balance with pare-chute suspension on the top pivot, blued steel flat balance spring. Grande and petite sonnerie on two gongs with two hammers, the strike/silent and grande/petite selection lever in the edge of the dial. Independent quarter repeating train with two hammers and two gongs, with pull-twist piston through the pendant. Signed on the dial, dial ring, cuvette and movement. Accompanied by Breguet certificate No. 2757 and photocopies of the original records. Diam. 62 mm.


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Grading System
Grade:
Case: 3 - 51
Movement: 3*

Good

Overhaul recommended, at buyer's expense

Dial: 2 - 01

Notes

Both the decoration and technical features of this watch are typical of the finest pieces made by Breguet for the Islamic Market and are in keeping with the suggestions made to Breguet by his friend Effendi, then an influential member of the Turkish Govern-ment, concerning the Turkish taste. This example is espe-cially well finished; particularly noteworthy is the use of 22K gold for the case. This was reserved by Breguet for his best pieces for the Turkish market. In the present watch, the enamel artist very skillfully used engine-turning, translucent enamel and a complex paillon pattern to achieve a "sunshine" effect. Breguet watches in 22K gold are extremely rare; the use of 22K gold is an indication of a superior quality case. Although Breguet used all three French gold standards, that is, 18, 20 and 22K, the latter is found quite rarely. We know of only two other 22K gold cases, with the serial Nos. 2951, and 3750. They were sold by Antiquorum in October 1997, lot No. 31, and on March 31, 2001, lot 180 respectively. A "cabriolet" case is one in which the inner case can be inserted either way, ma-king the watch a hunting-cased or an open-face watch. Literature: Illustrated and described by George Daniels in "The Art of Breguet", p. 207, fig. 201 a-d. For a biography of Breguet, see page 203. Literature: "Breguet - Watchmaker since 1775", by Emmanuel Breguet, Gourcuff Edition, Paris, 1997 Esseyd Ali Effendi (d. 1809) Born in Morea, he began his career in Istanbul in the Chancellery of the Sublime Porte. In response to the arrival of Marshal Sebastiani as French Ambassador in Istanbul, the Sultan of Turkey sent Ali Effendi to Paris in a similar capacity in 1796. After a stay of three years, he returned to Turkey and was put in charge of the Naval Shipyards, eventually becoming Minis-ter of the Navy, and making a substantial contribution towards the reform of the armed forces. Ali Effendi held several positions of importance during the reigns of both Selim IV and Mustafa IV, particularly during the nego-tiations of the Treaty with Napoleon. However, his arrogant nature eventually led to his being or-dered away from Istanbul, and he was assas-sinated in 1809. While in Paris, he became a friend of Talleyrand who introduced him to Breguet. Together with his interpreter Malotaky, he soon became one of the horologist?s best clients from 1798 on, buying a "minute grande sonnerie" clockwatch in 1799 and a long-case regulator in 1801. Back in Turkey in 1802, he wrote seve-ral letters to Breguet and ordered 10 repeating watches between 1804 and 1808, several less expensive watches and pocket thermometers. He was the first, along with his friend Stephanaki, an impor-tant watch dealer in Istanbul, to show Breguet the potential of the Islamic market as a market for special watches: the latter had to be gold and enamel, pair-cased, and fitted with white enamel Turkish dials. As Minister of the Turkish Marine, in 1804 he ordered a repeating watch "as good as possible" for the Emperor Selim I.