Only Watch

Monte Carlo, Sep 22, 2005

LOT 6

Breguet, The Marine 5817PR, No. 1.

EUR 45,000 - 55,000

Sold: EUR 110,000

The Marine 5817PR Designed in the grand tradition of the exclusive timepieces created by A.-L. Breguet himself for the Royal French Navy, the Marine 5817PR model?s assertive personality displays an arresting mix of refinement and modern spirit. Numbered 1/7, its stunning case features a pink gold frame with bezel and back in platinum. Its elegant 18K gold dial plate with black rhodium finish is enhanced by a subtle wave pattern, engine-turned by hand in the traditional manner. Faceted pink gold hands show the time on its silvered chapter ring?s pink gold numerals. Chased entirely by an engraver?s steady hand, the self-winding movement?s decor alludes to the achievements of astronomers, navigators and explorers of the past in a fascinating display that includes a sailing ship, naval knots, navigational stars and instruments. Its dramatic good looks are due in part to the contrast between its dark, oxidized frame and its bright, pink gold oscillating weight designed like a sextant. Adding a trim contemporary note, this salute to the collection?s early history comes with a sporty black rubber strap. Painstakingly finished and elaborately decorated by hand, the design?s unique character embodies a full measure of respect for the centuries-old values and spirit underpinning Breguet?s reputation. Case: Round, 18K pink gold, with fluted caseband, bezel and case back in platinum, screw-down crown, round-ended screw-secured lugs. Caseback hand-engraved on a rose engine, with sapphire crystal, Water-resistant to 100 meters (~ 330 feet). Bracelet: Rubber with deployant clasp. Diameter: 39 mm. Thickness: 11,85 mm. Dial: Black rhodium on 18K gold, engraved by hand on a rose engine, silvered chapter ring with applied pink gilt Roman numerals, center seconds hand, large date aperture at 6 o?clock. Luminous gold Breguet hands. Movement: Cal. 517GG, 11???1/2, self-winding, entirely chased with relievo engraving and blackened by oxidation to represent traditional sailing themes: a sailing ship, celestial bodies (sun, North Star, constellations), naval rope knots, wind rose and names of astronomers, navigators and explorers, 25 jewels. 65-hour power reserve, straight-line lever escapemen, monometallic balance adjusted in 5 positions, 28,800 VPH. 18K pink gold rotor shaped like a ship?s sextant.


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The Breguet firm was founded by Abraham-Louis Breguet (1747-1823),one of the most celebrated horologists of all time. Born in Neuchâtel, Switzerland, to a Protestant family, Abraham-Louis was eleven when his father died, and his mother remarried. Her second husband, Joseph Tattet, came from a watchmaking family, and the young man was subsequently apprenticed to a watchmaker in Versailles. While it is not certain whether or not Breguet worked for Ferdinand Berthoud or Jean-Antoine Lépine, it is certain that his studies in mathematics at the Collège Mazarin under the Abbé Marie were to have a decisive influence on his later career. Abbé Marie, who was also tutor to the children of the Comte d?Artois, was responsible for Breguet?s being introduced into influential circles. The aristocratic families that of the French court were to become some of Breguet?s most important clients and help him become established as a watchmaker. During the French Revolution Breguet went into exile in Switzerland. When he returned to France afterward, he was to create some of the most exceptional realisations of his career. Breguet?s technical, esthetic, and practical innovations, as well as his adaptation and improvement of many horological ideas made his work immensely influential in the world of horology. In September 1999, the Breguet firm was integrated into the Swatch Group under the direction of Nicolas G. Hayek, Président Directeur Général of Breguet. The Breguet brand has greatly benefited from the support of a well-established, solid industrial group. In seeking to differentiate Breguet from the rest of the Swatch Group, Mr. Hayek has sought to heighten the emotional dimension of the brand. The appeal of the Breguet tradition, with its astonishingly modern esthetic and the clean, pure lines favored by Abraham-Louis Breguet, continue to delight aficionados of the Breguet firm today.