Important Modern & Vintage Timepieces

New York, Dec 15, 2015

LOT 95

BREGUET SOUSCRIPTION SET NO. 34 YELLOW GOLD Breguet, "Souscription Set No. 34," Ref. 3430 (the wristwatch) and Ref. 1819 (the pocket watch). Made in a small series in 1991 to celebrate Antiquorum's Geneva auction "The Art of Breguet" in April 1991. Extremely fine, rare and important set comprising a minute-repeating, astronomic, 18K yellow gold wristwatch with perpetual calendar, moon phases, 18K yellow gold Breguet buckle and a large, keyless, astronomic, self-winding pocket watch with instantaneous calendar, moon phases and 45-hours power-reserve. Accompanied by a wooden presentation cabinet with winding provision for the wrist-watch and 2 certificates.

USD 60,000 - 80,000

HKD 465,000 - 620,000 / CHF 60,000 - 80,000

Sold: USD 81,250

A) THE WRISTWATCH Three-body, solid, polished, reeded band, straight lugs with gold-screwed bars, transparent case back, sapphire crystal. Two-tone "guilloché" silvered gold with painted radial Roman numerals on a plain outer reserve, subsidiary silver ring dials for the days of the month, of the week, the months, the leap year, sector graduation for the age of the moon, aperture for the moon phases. Blued steel Breguet hands. Cal. 189, rhodium plated, fausses côtes and oeil-de-perdrix decoration, 24 jewels, straight-line lever escapement, monometallic balance adjusted to 5 positions, shock absorber, self-compensating Breguet balance spring, swan- neck micrometer regulator, repeating on gongs by activating slide on the band. B) THE POCKET WATCH Three-body, "Empire," solid, polished, stepped bezels, reeded band, transparent case back. Two-tone guilloche silvered gold with painted radial Roman numerals on a plain outer reserve, outer dot minute divisions, subsidiary ring dial for the seconds, sectors for the age of the moon and the up-and-down indication, apertures for the moon phases at 2 and the instantaneous date at 6. Blued steel Breguet hands. Cal. 1890 mm.(23 1/2'''), frosted gilt, 27 jewels, bridge caliber, wound by a half-oval platinum (.960) WEIGHT with sapphire rollers to reduce friction, swinging on a pivoted curved arm for additional elasticity, two spring-loaded bumpers, Philippe slipping mainspring over-winding prevention, 25 jewels, straight line lever escapement, monometallic balance, "parachute" shock absorber on both pivots, self-compensating Breguet balance spring, micrometer regulator.

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Grading System
Case: 2

Very good

Movement: 1*

As new

Overhaul recommended, at buyer's expense

Dial: 1-01

As new

HANDS Original


A) Dial, case and movement signed. DIAM. 37 mm. THICKNESS 12 mm. B) Dial, case and movement signed. DIAM. 62 mm. Collection of a Distinguished Gentleman SOUSCRIPTION: ABRAHAM-LOUIS BREGUET conceived the idea for his "Souscription" watches in 1794 while exiled in Switzerland, during the French Revolution which forced him to leave Paris. The concept was brilliant and simple - to offer a watch to his clients that could be reserved in advance, for a down-payment of course and be delivered upon completion. To celebrate more than 200 years in the history of the BREGUET firm, MONTRES BREGUET created the "Souscription" set. The first set, No. 1, a unique set of both watches being cased in a platinum and 18K pink gold case, was sold during Antiquorum's Geneva auction The Art of Breguet on April 14, 1991.