Antiquorum Auctioneers since 1974

Geneva, Nov 07, 2026

LOT 186

CARTIER, “COUTEAU” (KNIFE-EDGE), ART DECO DRESS-WATCH, 18K YELLOW GOLD

CHF 2,000 - 4,000

HKD 19,100 - 38,200 / USD 2,500 - 4,900 / EUR 2,200 - 4,400 / JPY 384,000 - 770,000

Sold: CHF 2,772

A fine, 18k yellow gold, manual wind open-face, keyless-winding, “couteau” (knife-edge), extra-thin, Art Deco dress-watch, gold colour dial with suspended Arabic numerals with subsidiary seconds at 6. Blue steel Breguet hands.

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Grading System
Grade: AA

Very good
Case: 3-8

Good

Slightly scratched
Movement: 3-6*

Good

Slightly oxidized

Overhaul recommended, at buyer's expense
Dial: 3-7-01

Good

Oxidized

HANDS Original

Brand Cartier

Model “couteau” (knife-edge)

Year Circa 1920

Case No. 2577

Caliber 37 mm., 19 jewels, rhodium plated, straight-line lever escapement, cut bimetallic compensation balance, blued steel flat balance-spring, index regulator.

Diameter 46 mm.

Weight 46 gr.

Signature Dial, case numbered

Notes

Cartier, “Montre Couteau”

“Couteau” is the term used by Cartier in their manufacturing records to described this type of watches with knife-edge cases, open-face or hunting-case models.

The case of the hunting-case version is of an unusual construction with its two-body (cover and case-back); the movement is housed in an adapter ring whose upper part forms the bezel.

Cartier sourced their “Couteau” watch movements from several suppliers. These included, as of 1935, LeCoultre (future Jaeger-LeCoultre), who had just invented a movement of 7.75 douzièmes (only 2 mm. thick), and, Vacheron & Constantin, who from 1940 utilized a movement which was seven douzièmes (only 1.31 mm. thick). This allowed them to produce incredibly thin watches.

These watches – with less than 4 mm. thick for the open-face version and less 5 mm. version for the hunting-case version – are among the thinnest mechanical watches ever produced.