Important Collectors' Watches, Pocket...

Geneva, Mar 16, 2008

LOT 340

Art Deco ?Tigre Indien? Cartier, France, No. 28231/34646. Made circa 1925. Exceptional, unique and very fine, Art Deco, lady?s 18K yellow gold and champleve enamel bracelet watch with Cartier fully signed 18K yellow gold, coral and tiger?s claw-set bracelet.

CHF 45,000 - 55,000

USD 40,000 - 50,000 / EUR 28,000 - 35,000

C. Two-body, rectangular, polished, large rectangular mobile lugs with black enamel Art Deco geometric decoration, four screws in the side to secure the back, cabochon sapphire-set winding crown. The bracelet composed of four links mounted with tiger?s claws in gold Art Deco settings decorated with black champleve enamel, set with 9 coral cabochons. D. Matte silvered with painted black radial Roman numerals. Blued steel spade hands. M. 5???, signed European Watch Co., Inc., rhodium-plated, fausses cotes decoration, 18 jewels, straight-line lever escapement, cut bimetallic balance, blued steel Breguet balance-spring, index regulator. Dial and bracelet signed Cartier, France, movement signed European Watch Co., Inc. Dim . 45 x 14 mm. Thickness 5 mm. Approx. overall length 160 mm.


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Grading System
Grade:
Case: 3

Good

Movement: 3*

Good

Overhaul recommended, at buyer's expense

Dial: 3-6-01

Good

Slightly oxidized

HANDS Original

Notes

Provenance: This watch was first sold by Christie?s London in June 16th 2004 at which time, it was stated to have been consigned by a noble Indian family. Provenance: An Indian Princely Family The present watch is a wonderful example of Cartier?s high Art Deco Indian style and it was a special commission by Indian royalty. Made in Paris, the tiger?s claws were probably provided by the client to be mounted in what was a highly fashionable and unique creation. Cartier and the Influences of India Because of India?s place in the British Empire, the influence in India of London was much greater than Paris, so in 1909, Cartier Paris assigned all aspects of its Indian business to Jacques Cartier and the London branch of the firm. The jewellery and watches were still made in Paris but Jacques Cartier in London was responsible for all negotiations with Indian Maharajas on their regular visits to London, the buying of gemstones in Delhi and customer contact in Bombay. Jacques Cartier first travelled to India in 1911 and was surprised to learn that the Maharajas were mainly interested in watches, however, after Cartier was introduced to The Gaekwar of Baroda interest in jewellery grew. This trip was very important for Cartier as it set the tone for the next quarter of a century in that Indian rulers became exclusively interested in Parisian jewellery, in fact, they had no qualms at all about handing over their family treasures to be reworked in the latest fashionable styles. In 1925, the Maharajah of Patiala commissioned Cartier to remodel his crown jewels, probably the biggest commission of all time in terms of quality and quantity. Before returning the jewels to Patiala, Cartier exhibited the principal pieces in the Rue de la Paix, attracting wide publicity and this event brought increasing commissions from India and was also a sensation in Europe. Conversely, Cartier was inspired by Indian designs and materials to enhance their Art Deco styles, sometimes incorporating genuine antique gems and materials (such as the tiger?s claws in the present watch) in their jewellery. Under the direction of Cartier?s chief designer, Jeanne Toussaint, who had an innate feel for the Indian style, yellow gold was brought back into fashion, yellow gold combined with black enamel or onyx and coral became the most popular color combination in Cartier?s Art Deco designs. Toussaint joined Cartier in 1907 and became the head of the Jewellery Department in 1933.