Important Modern and Vintage Timepieces

Geneva, Mar 11, 2012

LOT 171

CARTIER REVERSIBLE HAUTE JOAILLERIE BRACELET WATCH, SAPPHIRE & DIAMOND FOUR-LEAF CLOVER Cartier, Paris, No. 11289/2731. Made circa 1910-15. Exquisite, early, very elegant and extremely rare, platinum, yellow gold, enamel, rose-cut diamond and sapphire-set lady?s ?reversible?wristwatch with integral threestrand pearl bracelet with platinum and rose-diamond-set clasp.

CHF 26,000 - 50,000

USD 28,000 - 55,000 / EUR 20,000 - 48,000

C. Two-body, the bezel overlaid with translucent royal blue guilloche enamel with enamel white line outer border and inner enamel ?pearls? surrounding the dial, band enameled to match, platinum lugs set with rose-cut diamonds, the back set with four large sugar-loaf teardrop-shaped cabochon sapphires in yellow gold settings designed as a clover leaf with rose-cut diamond-set platinum stem and central diamond, the background overlaid with royal blue translucent guilloche enamel over sunray engine-turning, platinum outer border set with rose-cut diamonds, cabochon sapphire-set winding crown and matching opposing faux crown to provide symmetry. D. Matte silver, sunray engine-turned, black Arabic numerals, outer minute divisions. Blued steel Breguet hands. M. Rhodium plated, fausses cotes decoration, 18 jewels, straight-line lever escapement, cut bimetallic compensation balance with 8 adjustments, blued steel Breguet balance spring with index regulator. Dial and movement signed Cartier, Paris. Case numbered. Diam. 24 mm.


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Grading System
Grade: AAA

Excellent
Case: 3

Good
Movement: 3*

Good

Overhaul recommended, at buyer's expense
Dial: 2-6-01

Very good

Slightly oxidized

HANDS Original

Notes

This richly jeweled watch is designed to be worn as either a bracelet or alternately with the wristwatch side upwards if preferred. To give symmetry and balance to the case another winding crown has been placed opposite the actual winding crown, giving the appearance of two crowns. The fourleaf clover is a symbol of good luck, the leaf is set with four large cabochon sapphires known as ?sugar loaf? due to their high domed profi le. The case is classic Cartier of the period 1910 to 1915 with diamonds being set into platinum, a technique Cartier was one of the fi rst to adopt for their jewelery. The dial is surrounded by white enamel dots, giving the appearance of pearls, another highly distinctive feature of Cartier design of this period.