Important Modern & Vintage Timepieces
Geneva, Mar 17, 2013
LOT 446
CARTIER ? AN EXCEPTIONAL PLATINUM, DIAMOND & SAPPHIRE LADY?S WATCH Cartier, Paris, No. 4257/3982/1887/4515. Made in 1912. Exceptional and almost certainly unique, large, ?carré aux angles arrondis?, platinum, white diamond, black diamond and sapphire-set lady?s bracelet watch with integral platinum, diamond and sapphire-set expanding bracelet with individually sprung links and concealed clasp.
CHF 45,000 - 65,000
USD 50,000 - 70,000 / EUR 36,000 - 53,000
C. Two-body, square with rounded corners, polished, the bezel set with 36 round white diamonds, articulated E-shaped lugs set with 18 baguette sapphires and 60 rose-cut diamonds, the bracelet composed of double-sprung oblong links, each set with a line of baguette sapphires flanked by 28 rose-cut diamonds, the links intersected by 5 large single white diamonds in a collet setting, the clasp matching the bracelet links with concealed fastener released by depressing the second baguette sapphire, back secured by four screws in the band, beaded platinum winding crown set with a single rose-cut black diamond. D. Engine-turned silver with a sunray pattern, radial Roman numerals, inner minute divisions. Blued steel Breguet hands. M. 9???, matte gilt, bar caliber, 18 jewels, straight line lever escapement, cut bimetallic compensation balance with 8 adjustments, blued steel flat balance spring, index regulator. Dial signed Cartier Paris, Bte. S.G.D.G., case numbered 4257/3982/1887 on the back and again 4257 on the inside of the band, 4515 on the exterior of the band, back engraved `Modèle Depose Brevete S.G.D.G. and again on the band, movement signed Cartier Paris. DIAM. 22.1 x 47.5 mm (including lugs). THICKNESS 4 mm. Approx. Overall length 165 mm.
| Grading System | |
|---|---|
Grade: |
|
Case: 2 |
Very good |
Movement: 3* |
Good Overhaul recommended, at buyer's expense |
Dial: 2-01 |
Very good HANDS Original |
Notes
Made in 1912, it also dates from the earliest period of the wristwatch and as ever Cartier was at the forefront of this new trend. The Cartier designers and jewellers relished the creation of watches that could combine the technical with the Cartier aesthetic. Typically for a Cartier piece, this watch is constructed of platinum ? at that time an innovative new material for jewellery and a combination of precious stones using different facet cuts to give the richest effect. Old rose-cut and brilliant cut are brought together in perfect harmony. The bracelet as one would expect is made to the same exacting standards with each link being double sprung ? quite a complicated piece of engineering, the clasp is concealed to give an unbroken elegant line and is released by pressing one of the sapphires.
This superb watch is perhaps one of the best examples made in the golden period before the First World War and the Russian Revolution when the power of old Europe was at its zenith and is exactly the kind of ultimate luxury object that was so desired by the aristocratic and very rich clients of Cartier.