Exceptional Horological Works of Art

Geneva, Oct 19, 2002

LOT 60

Cartier, France, "Bracelet Montre Tortue Or", No. 22302, movement No. 40736. Entered in the registers on April 24, 1929, sold in 1931. Exceptional and unique Art Deco, minute repeating, 18K yellow gold gentleman's wristwatch.

CHF 1 - 1

EUR 1 - 1

Sold: CHF 993,500

C. two-body, solid, polished, shaped, screws on the band to attach the case back bearing the monogram "F.H.C.", wide bezel, concave lugs. D. matte silver with enameled radial Roman numerals. "Breguet" blued steel hands. M. Cal. 11''', rhodium-plated, 18 jewels, straight line lever escapement, cut bimetallic balance, Breguet balance-spring, repeater on gongs by means of a slide on the band. Signed Cartier on the dial, European Watch & Clock Co. on the movement, and numbered on the case. Dim. 32 x 40 mm.

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Grading System
Case: 3


Movement: 3*


Overhaul recommended, at buyer's expense

Dial: 3 - 01


This watch is published in "Le Temps de Cartier", by Jader Barracca, Giampiero Negretti and Franco Nencini, p. 206. It was published on the cover of Antiquorum?s April 4, 1982 catalogue, lot 140. Research in the archives shows that this is the only minute repeating watch known to have been made by Cartier during the Art Deco period. Cartier In 1847, Louis-François Cartier took over Adolphe Picard's jewelry workshop at 31, rue Montorgueil in Paris. This established the House of Cartier. At the time, Napoleon III ruled France. After a period of unrest, Paris once again became alive with celebrations and balls. The splendors of the Second Empire contributed favorably to Cartier's expansion. Cartier grew as a result of the patronage of Princess Mathilde, the Emperor's first cousin, and, in 1859, moved into premises at 9 boulevard des Italiens, in the heart of fashionable Paris. Louis-François Cartier attracted the favors of the Empress Eugénie and formed a strong bond of friendship with Worth, the great couturier of international renown. This helped develop close connections for years to come. In 1899, Cartier moved to the prestigious premises at 13 rue de la Paix, the heart of elegance and luxury, where Cartier continues to reside. At last Cartier had created an image worthy of his aspirations. At that time, Alfred Cartier entrusted his three sons with the international future of the House of Cartier. Two generations later, Cartier had firmly established itself as the most prestigious jeweler in the world. With the brilliant clock maker, Maurice Couët, Cartier developed and excelled in the making of mystery clocks (based on Robert Houdin's principle dating from circa 1850). The most beautiful of these are six "Portico" and twelve "Chinoise" clocks. These clocks are to Cartier what Imperial Easter Eggs are to Fabergé. Wristwatches, in stock since 1888 according to the Cartier archives, knew enormous success with the introduction of the Santos model in 1911. The prototype was given by Louis Cartier to the Brazilian aviator Alberto Santos-Dumont in 1904. Under Louis Cartier's management, the company was tirelessly innovative. Without a doubt, he revolutionized the art of jewelry in all its forms, taking Haute Joaillerie, clock-making and accessories to the summit of art - The Art of Cartier. At the same time, he lay the groundwork for a new form of luxury consumption. The year 1979 marked the historic unification of Cartier's world-wide interests with the formation of Cartier Monde, which reunited and controlled Cartier Paris, Cartier London and Cartier New York. In 1989 and 1990 the first major exhibition of the Cartier Collection was staged, at the request of a museum of international renown. Entitled "The Art de Cartier," it was held at the Musée du Petit Palais in Paris. In 1993, the Vendôme Luxury Group was created by Joseph Kanoui, president of Cartier Monde. Today it includes the following brands: Cartier, Alfred Dunhill, Montblanc, Piaget, Baume & Mercier, Vacheron Constantin, Lancel, Chloé, Sulka, Hackett, Seeger and James Purdey and Sons. Cartier International, one of the world's leading luxury goods companies, designs, manufactures and distributes all of Cartier's products. The company markets a broad range of luxury products, including jewelry, watches, pens, lighters, silver and crystal, through a global network of 185 Cartier stores and 8,000 authorized dealers located in 123 countries.