Important Collector's Wristwatches, P...

Geneva, Dec 02, 2003

LOT 377

Cartier, No. 16474, movement No. 30908 started in 1924,entered into the register on December 11, 1925.Extremely rare and important, minute-repeating, astronomic, platinumdress watch with perpetual calendar and moon phases.

USD 100,000 - 120,000

EUR 86,000 - 103,000

Sold: USD 167,500

C. three-piece, "Empire", solid, polished, triangular bow, milled groove in the band for the slide. D. silver, matted, applied gold Arabicnumerals, outer minute dot divisions, four champlevé subsidiary sunk dials for days of the week, date, months of the four year leap cycleand subsidiary seconds concentric with phases of the moon aperture and its age. Gold "Cathedral" hands. M. Cal. SMQV, 40 mm (18???),rhodium-plated, ?fausses-côtes? decoration, 29 jewels, straight line lever escapement, cut-bimetallic compensation balance, Breguetbalance spring, repeating on gongs by activating slide in the band.Dial signed, case and movement punched with Cartier numbers. Case also punched with Edmond Jaeger mark as well as French platinumHallmarks.Diam. 46 mm


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Grading System
Grade:
Case: 3

Good
Movement: 3*

Good

Overhaul recommended, at buyer's expense
Dial: 3-5-01

Good

Poor

HANDS Original

Notes

The manufacturing records register the watch on December 11, 1925, and the register contains records of no other similar watch.The present piece seems to be one of the first Cartier watches in platinum with such complications to appear on the market.The Cartier archives record a few perpetual calendar pocket watches made in the 1920s. An archival photograph of one example isshown in "Le Temps de Cartier" by Jader Barracca, Giampiero Negretti and Franco Nencini, Milano, 1989, p. 142.The Jaeger mark on the case reflects the fact that Edmond Jaeger was put in charge of Cartier watch production in 1907.