Antiquorum Auctioneers since 1974

Important Modern & Vintage Timepieces

Hong Kong, May 31, 2026

LOT 35

CARTIER, REF. 1543, PARIS STEPPED JUMBO TANK, GOLD PLATED BRASS

HKD 60,000 - 110,000

EUR 6,600 - 12,000 / CHF 6,000 - 11,000 / USD 7,700 - 14,100 / JPY 1,200,000 - 2,200,000

Sold: HKD 68,750

A very fine, rare, limited-edition wristwatch featuring a gold-plated brass case with a stepped bezel. This manual-winding timepiece is equipped with a snap-on caseback, which features a French language engraving, the UNROC logo, and ‘Plaqué Or G 20M’.


Grading System
Grade: AAA

Excellent

Case: 3-6-8

Good

Slightly oxidized

Slightly scratched

Movement: 3*

Good

Overhaul recommended, at buyer's expense

Dial: 2-6-8-01

Very good

Slightly oxidized

Slightly scratched

HANDS Original

Brand Cartier

Model Paris Stepped Jumbo Tank

Reference 1543

Year circa 1973-1976

Case No. 5512116, 3685

Bracelet leather strap with gold plated Cartier pin buckle

Caliber 78-1

Length 37.5mm

Width 28mm

Signature dial, case and movement

Biography

The Cartier Reference 1543 ‘Paris’ Stepped Jumbo Tank (circa 1973–1976) is a rare and highly sought-after transitional timepiece from the Maison’s pre-’Must de Cartier’ era. Produced exclusively for the flagship Paris boutique at Place Vendôme before the 1976 unification of Cartier’s international branches, this model represents a limited-production boutique piece rather than the later mass-market vermeil Must line. Its rarity stems from this short production window and decentralized manufacturing period.

The ‘Jumbo’ size was a bold departure from classic, delicate Tank proportions, catering to collectors who appreciate a stronger  wrist presence. The defining feature is its distinctive triple-stepped case—a sculptural, architectural design that adds depth and  Art Deco character to the traditional flat silhouette. Because these sharp, multi-layered edges are notoriously difficult to preserve and often lost to over-polishing, well-maintained specimens are especially prized. As a mechanical manual-wind watch with high-quality gold plating (Plaqué Or G 20M), the Ref. 1543 serves as an important evolutionary link between vintage Cartier elegance and the emerging oversized trends of the 1970s.

In the present example, the signature stepped case remains well-defined and sharp with some oxidation. The caseback’s French  language engravings remain clear and visible, as well as the ‘UNROC’ logo and Plaqué Or G 20M.