Only Online Auction
Milan, Apr 17, 2025
LOT 37
CARTIER, SWITZERLAND, REF. -, SANTOS DUMONT YELLOW GOLD
EUR 20,000 - 40,000
CHF 19,100 - 38,200 / HKD 172,000 - 342,000 / USD 22,000 - 43,900
Sold: EUR 30,240
A very rare, fine and very early 18k yellow gold manual winding wristwatch with silver dial, roman numerals and blue hands.
| Grading System | |
|---|---|
Grade: AAA |
Excellent |
Case: 2-8 |
Very good Slightly scratched |
Movement: 2* |
Very good Overhaul recommended, at buyer's expense |
Dial: 2-01-06-10 |
Very good HANDS Original HANDS Partially replaced Patinated |
Brand Cartier, Switzerland
Model Santos Dumont Yellow gold
Reference -
Movement No. -
Case No. 1954
Bracelet Leather with 18k deployant clasp numbered: 462. Total length: 175mm
Length 25
Caliber European Watch and clock
Width 32
Weight 32,4g
Signature Dial, case and movement
Notes
Named after Alberto Santos-Dumont (1873–1932), the Cartier Santos is one of the most iconic designs in watchmaking history and one of the very first true tool watches.
Born in Brazil, Santos-Dumont was the sixth son of engineer and prominent coffee farmer Henrique Dumont and Francisca de Paula Santos. From a young age, he was fascinated by aviation and became obsessed with the emerging technology of flight. In 1892, he moved to France to pursue aeronautics, eventually becoming a key figure in the field. On October 19, 1901, he cemented his place in history by winning the prestigious Deutsch Prize, which required a pilot to fly from Parc de Saint-Cloud to the Eiffel Tower and back—an achievement that was widely debated before being officially recognized.
Due to his social status, Santos-Dumont was acquainted with Louis Cartier (1875–1942), grandson of Louis-François Cartier, founder of the renowned jewelry and watchmaking house. In 1904, the two friends collaborated on a wristwatch designed to allow Santos-Dumont to check the time easily while flying. Legend has it that the design was developed either with Edmond Jaeger or even Hans Wilsdorf. By strapping the watch to the wrist for constant accessibility, Louis Cartier not only provided Santos-Dumont with a practical tool but also unknowingly revolutionized how watches were worn.
Though the original prototype has been lost, its legacy endures. In 1908, Louis Cartier revisited this groundbreaking design, making it commercially available in 1911 to great success. Eight hundred pieces were sold between 1911 and 1973. The model we are presenting is one of the earliest Santos watches ever produced, featuring all the defining characteristics that contributed to its success: a square case, a screwed bezel with visible screws, and a cream dial with blued steel hands. Notably, the first Santos watches were crafted in gold. It wasn’t until 1978 that Cartier introduced a completely reimagined Santos, featuring a stainless steel case with a gold bezel and a matching stainless steel bracelet with gold screws—one of the first-ever steel and gold watches and the first non-precious metal Santos.
Recognized by experts as the first mass-produced men’s wristwatch, the Santos was the first to truly meet the needs of the modern man. Despite evolving through numerous variations over the years, the design has stood the test of time with remarkable elegance, making it one of the most iconic watches in history.
CONDITIONS AND INFORMATION FOR BUYERS.
The purchase price payable by a buyer will be the sum of the final bid price plus the buyer’s premium, together with any applicable sales or compensating use tax. In addition to the hammer price, the buyer’s premium is payable as follows: 26% of the hammer price on each lot.
Please look carefully at all the photos as they are an integral part of the description. Any defect not mentioned in the descriptions but visible on the photos will be considered as described and cannot lead to any claim. The dimensions are given as an indication and may slightly differ from the measures mentioned by the manufacturers especially for contemporary watches. The photos are not retouched. Colors may differ from reality. For timepieces, we guarantee neither the functioning nor the precision of the movement, nor the water-resistance of the case. In addition, please note that movements, parts of mechanisms or cases may be incomplete.
The lots are sold “as is”, described to the best of our knowledge and cannot be returned. Once the online bid is placed by the bidder, it cannot be cancelled.