Case based on the Swiss invention patent No. 162 787, delivered on July 15, 1933 (application filed on July 1st, 1932; patent published on September 16, 1933), to Spécialités Horlogères S.A., Lausanne, for a “Montre-bracelet” (Wrist-watch).

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Cartier, “Cabriolet”, “Réversible” or “Basculante” models

At the beginning of the 20th century and especially after the First World War, wristwatches became fashionable, not least because they were much more practical to wear. However, a watch worn on the wrist is exposed to shocks and accidents of all kinds. The protection of the watch glass was therefore a major concern for watchmakers, jewellers and other case manufacturers, until the invention of new, more resistant types of glass, in the form of reinforced mineral glass and then synthetic sapphire.

In these “ancient” times, many inventions were developed to protect the classic mineral glass by covering it (covers, grids or sliding shutters) or by turning it upside down (with pivoting or tilting systems); the latter means that the glass is placed against the wrist, thus being even more protected. For more information, see our note entitled “Montres bracelets à couvercle”, in Antiquorum, Geneva, auction, April 12-13, 1997, lots 404 and 603.

If, as early as the 1910s, patents were filed, it was not until 1923 that the famous Parisian house Cartier obtained one for a model of extreme refinement (French invention patent No. 568 683). It is in fact a bracelet composed of similar elements connected by hinges, in one of which is a watch. The dial of said watch is covered by a lid device which makes it invisible – the appearance of the cover(s) being consistent with that of the other links of the bracelet – so that the bracelet thus has the appearance of an ordinary bracelet. By pressing a button, the closing device (lid or shutters) is raised at will, so that the dial is uncovered and the time can be read.

· French invention patent No. 568 683, delivered on December 16, 1923 (application filed on June 29, 1923; patent published on March 31, 1924), to Louis Cartier and Paul Pouch, Paris, for a “Nouveau bracelet”.

· British invention patent No. 216 751, delivered on June 5, 1924 (application filed on August 23, 1923), to Louis Cartier et Paul Pouch, for a “Improvements in Watch Bracelets”.

· Swiss invention patent No. 110 336, delivered on June 1st, 1925 (application filed on June 20, 1924), to Louis Cartier et Paul Pouch, for a “Bracelet”.

During the inter-war period, the House of Cartier was run in Paris by Louis Cartier (1875-1942). As early as 1907, he began a close collaboration with Edmond Jaeger (1858-1922), a brilliant Alsatian inventor, watchmaker and jeweller, who specialised in Paris in watch cases, extra-flat watches, etc. In 1920, the two men founded the European Watch and Clock Co. Inc., which produced watch and clock movements with LeCoultre & Cie in Le Sentier (Vallée de Joux), Switzerland. This was run by Jacques-David LeCoultre (1875-1948). The latter joined forces with César de Trey (1876-1953), a Swiss businessman, and created the firm Spécialités Horlogères S.A., first in Lausanne, then in Geneva, a company working mainly in the distribution of watchmaking products. It was to them that we owe the success of the “Reverso”, the design of which was invented by René-Alfred Chauvot and patented in France on March 4, 1931, under No. 712 868. Edmond Jaeger and Jacques-David LeCoultre then joined forces to create the company Jaeger-LeCoultre.

For its part, on July 6, 1926, Cartier filed a patent for a “Wristwatch in which the glass is turned towards the wrist. A point or one of the sides of the case is mounted on the strap in such a way as to allow the watch to pivot around this side” (French invention patent No 618 629); this is the "Tank Savonnette”. See Cologni, Cartier, The Tank Watch, 1998, pp. 98 et 214.

In 1932, Cartier launched another watch that became legendary, initially called “Réversible Basculante” or “Cabriolet Réversible”, then “Tank Réversible”. Although the model was patented by Spécialités Horlogères S.A., Lausanne, it was reserved exclusively for Cartier (Swiss invention patent No. 162 787).

· Swiss invention patent No. 162 787, delivered on July 15, 1933 (application filed on July 1st, 1932; patent published on September 16, 1933), to Spécialités Horlogères S.A., Lausanne, for a “Montre-bracelet” (Wrist-watch).

The invention is undoubtedly an ingenious system, allowing a complete 360-degree rotation of the rectangular watch case inside a horizontal frame and its insertion inside a second case (a so-called support ayant la forme d’une augette, trough-shaped support), to which the strap is attached on both sides, so as to reveal or conceal the dial and to protect the glass.

Between 1932 and circa 1942, a very small number of versions with slight variations in construction were produced by Cartier (~ 38 x 20 mm.), called “Cabriolet”, “Reversible” or “Basculante” (meaning ‘tipping’ or ‘swinging’), followed by a much longer model in 1942 (~ 46 x 23 mm.). See Antiquorum, Geneva, thematic auction, The Magical Art of Cartier, November 19, 1996, lots 340-342.

Very few pieces of this type of watch were subsequently made by Cartier in the 1950s and 1960s. See Antiquorum, Geneva, thematic auction, The Magical Art of Cartier, November 19, 1996, lots 343-345.

In 1972, Cartier launched new “Réversible Cabriolet” and “Réversible” models (the latter is in fact a “Reverso” with one or two movements), for men and women. See Antiquorum, Geneva, thematic auction, The Magical Art of Cartier, November 19, 1996, lots 589-590 and 591-593.

Finally, in the 1990s, Cartier produced special editions inspired by its watchmaking tradition, namely:

· “Tank Basculante, 1992”, a limited edition in yellow gold of 400 pieces (with sapphire cabochon), made in 1991 and retailed in 1992 (for the amount of CHF 12 680.-).

· “Tank Basculante, 1996”, a unique piece in yellow gold, dial in gold with Roman numerals (III-VI-IX-XII) and “Baton” indexes (with sapphire cabochon). See Antiquorum, Geneva, thematic auction, The Magical Art of Cartier, November 19, 1996, lot 234.

· “Tank Basculante, 1996”, a unique piece in yellow gold, dial in gold with the letters “C-A-R-T-I-E-R-P-A-R-I-S”. (with sapphire cabochon). See Antiquorum, Geneva, thematic auction, The Magical Art of Cartier, November 19, 1996, lot 233.

· “Collections Privées de Cartier, 1997”, a range of exceptional timepieces celebrating the jeweller’s 150th anniversary (with ruby cabochon):

o “Tank Basculante”, limited edition in yellow gold of 15 pieces, dial with “150 years of Cartier” motif;

o The same, jewellery version;

o The same with transparent case-back;

o The same with transparent case-back and Arabic numerals on the dial;

o The same with skeleton movement.

· “Tank Basculante, 1999”, in stainless steel (with sapphire cabochon):

o Large size with mechanical movement;

o Medium and small size with quartz movement.

Other series followed in the 2000s.

If from the beginning of its production, this type of watch was a response to a specific market demand, it was essentially aimed at a selective clientele, who wore them more for social and aesthetic reasons than strictly functional ones; the watches could be worn with the dial upwards or by concealing it to reveal, engraved on the case, a coat-of-arms, a motto, initials or a cypher.

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· Gordon, George, A Century of Cartier Wristwatches, Hong Kong, Timeless Elegance Co. Ltd., Alan Zie Yongder, pp. 127-129.

· Barracca, Jader, Negretti, Giampiero, & Nencini, Franco, Ore d’Oro, Milan, Editions Wrist, 1984, p. 129; Ore d’Oro 2, nuova edizione, Milan, Editions Wrist, 1987, p. 129.

· Barracca, Jader, Negretti, Giampiero, & Nencini, Franco, Le Temps de Cartier, Milan, Publi-Prom Editions & Wrist International Editions, 1989, p. 205; Le Temps de Cartier, Nouvelle édition, Milan, Editions Wrist International Srl, 1993, p. 205.

· Antiquorum, Geneva, thematic auction, The Magical Art of Cartier, An Important Collection of Horology, Jewelry and Objects of Vertu, November 19, 1996, lots 233-234, 340-345, 589-590, 591-593.

· Cologni, Franco, Cartier, The Tank Watch, Paris – New York, Editions Flammarion, 1998, pp. 97-100, 214-216 and 251.