A remarkable expression of Chopard’s high jewellery production of the 1970s, the present reference 4009/1, case no. 96306, transcends the traditional form of a wristwatch to become a miniature piece of wearable sculpture.
Executed in 18K white gold, its extraordinary asymmetrical architecture is conceived as a stylised grape cluster cascading naturally across the upper part of the watch. Fourteen marquise-cut diamonds, weighing approximately 2.36 carats in total, are individually arranged in an overlapping composition evoking the leaves and fruit of a bunch of grapes. Their graduated proportions and seemingly spontaneous placement create a remarkable sense of movement, as though the cluster were naturally falling around the case and onto the wrist.
The sculptural composition flows into the generously diamond-set case and integrated bracelet. The watch carries approximately 5.09 carats of diamonds in total, comprising the fourteen marquise-cut diamonds of approximately 2.36 carats together with 193 brilliant-cut diamonds pavé-set throughout the white gold case and bracelet. The marquise-cut stones are particularly attractive, displaying pleasing proportions and a lively brilliance that contrasts beautifully with the dense scintillation of the surrounding pavé setting.
At the centre of this elaborate jewel lies a remarkably pure black onyx dial. Entirely devoid of hour markers, its polished surface is interrupted only by the Chopard Genève signature and a pair of sharply faceted hands. The absolute simplicity and depth of the black onyx provides a dramatic visual counterpoint to the brilliance of the diamonds, allowing the cascading grape-cluster composition to remain the undisputed focus of the design.
Measuring approximately 31 mm in diameter and weighing approximately 41.48 grams, the watch retains an elegant and surprisingly balanced presence despite the richness of its construction. The case, dial and movement are signed. The inner case is numbered 96306 and bears reference 4009/1. The watch is fitted with a manually wound movement.
More than fifty years after its creation, this extraordinary Chopard remains a compelling illustration of an era in which the Maison approached the wristwatch as much as a jewel as an instrument for measuring time. The cascading “Grape Cluster” composition, deep black onyx dial and abundant diamond setting combine to create an unmistakable object of 1970s Geneva high jewellery, exuberant in conception yet remarkably sophisticated in execution.
