Important Modern & Vintage Timepieces

Monaco, Jul 21, 2021

LOT 117

Ref. 004 / B, self-winding, bissextile perpetual calendar, moon phases; limited edition of 10 examples; 18K yellow gold, diamonds, emeralds and enamel

EUR 14,000 - 18,000

USD 16,700 - 21,400 / HKD 130,000 - 166,000

18K yellow gold, diamond-set, emerald-set and enamel, self-winding, round-shaped, gentleman’s wristwatch, water-resistant with case-back screwed by six screws, cabochon emerald-set crown, silver colour guilloché (engine-turned) dial with radial Roman numerals and six horological complications:
• Half-instantaneous perpetual calendar
• Date of the month (subsidiary dial at 3 o’clock)
• Day of the week (subsidiary dial at 9 o’clock; indications given in French)
• Month of the year (subsidiary dial at 12 o’clock; indications given in French)
• Four-year cycle of leap-years (subsidiary dial at 12 o’clock)
• Age and phases of the moon (subsidiary dial, graduated from 0 to 29 ½, and aperture at 6 o’clock)

Bezel set with two rows of brilliant-cut diamonds. Dial set with two emeralds, one at 12, the other at 6. Case-back enamelled in green emerald colour.

Grading System
Grade: AAA


Case: 2-8

Very good

Slightly scratched

Movement: 2*

Very good

Overhaul recommended, at buyer's expense

Dial: 1-01

As new

HANDS Original

Brand Exception, La Chaux-de-Fonds

Model limited edition of 10 examples

Reference 004 / B

Year circa 1980-1990

Case No. unnumbered (by Stila S.A., La Chaux-de-Fonds)

Bracelet brown leather strap

Buckle 18K yellow gold Exception deployant clasp

Caliber 888 (based on Jaeger-LeCoultre, Le Sentier (Vallée de Joux), No. 2 458 030)

Dimensions 43.7 x 36.7 mm

Signature dial, case and movement

Accessories original winding fitted box (insert missing) and outer box, instructions booklet / certificate of origin (blank), gilded metal setting-pin


Of the ten wristwatches made by Exception with a perpetual calendar, this is the only one set with diamonds and emeralds.
Exception, La Chaux-de-Fonds
The Exception house was founded in La Chaux-de-Fonds in the 1980’s and has produced a number of series of wristwatches with horological complications, each in series of ten pieces (based on Jaeger-LeCoultre, Valjoux, Arola, etc. ebauches).
It is also responsible for exceptional pocket watches or wristwatches, unique or produced in series of three pieces, “Grande Complication” or “triple complication”, based on movements from Audemars Piguet, LeCoultre, Dubois-Dépraz or other manufactures in the Vallée de Joux).
*a 20% import VAT is due on the hammer price with buyer's premium, plus 150€ for termination of temporary export, at buyer's expense, only if it is delivered within the EU