Notes
Provenance: Traditionally by family descent from the contemporary Bishop of Hereford.
There can be no doubt that the uniquely decorated case of this watch is a product of the Blois school of enameling. Most
likely it was actually made in Blois, since there is little evidence that trained craftsmen set up in business outside France
much before 1650, and anyway the techniques were a closely guarded secret. Felibien des Avaux, writing in 1676
ascribes the technique of painting in enamel on enamel to Jean Toutin, a goldsmith from Chateaudun, with a date of
1632. Contemporary records would indicate an earlier date, probably the end of the 1620s. What makes this case such
an interesting survival is the fact that it appears to bridge the gap between the earlier extant techniques of simple matt
and translucent enameling which can be traced back to the 16th Century, and the fully fledged painting in enamels that
characterized the Blois school in the mid-17th Century.
The palette of translucent colors is extensive for the period, with six different colors employed to decorate the champlevé
flowers and foliage that cover the case and dial. These are laid over an engraved or flinqué gold ground. Four
opaque enamels complete the palette, with the white background being further decorated with motifs painted in black.
A single flower (fritillary) is picked out in white and powder blue, with the same color being used on the pendant.
Painting on enamel in enamel, for which the Blois school is most famed, involved the construction of an exceptionally
thin gold framework which was enameled on all surfaces, the inside or counter enamel being an integral part of the
structure. This case was made using a different technique. Initially the shell would have been cast or drawn up in
considerable thickness, sufficient to support the stresses involved in firing the enamels without distortion. Afterwards,
the excess gold would have been recovered by scraping away the interior until only a thin skin remained. Pierre Vilar
in his classic work ?A History of Gold and Money 1450 ? 1920?, provides an indication of the enormous value of gold
at the time. By his calculation, in 1500, if all the gold in Europe were combined into a block, it would have only
measured two meters cube. Although watches of this period are rare by any account, it is certain that many would have
been scrapped in subsequent years simply on account of their precious metal content.
William Clay
Probably working before 1632, and died circa 1662. Never officially elected to the Clockmaker?s Company but was
accepted by them. Recorded address ? King?s Street, Westminster ? and took three apprentices, Charles Duffa in 1646,
George Fullum in 1649 and Arthur Dove in 1659. Known work includes a superior lantern clock and watches.
William Clay is listed in all the leading works covering the period, but since he never became an official member of the
nascent Clockmakers? Company, opinions as to his exact working dates vary. According to Britten (6th Edition), he was
a brother of the Company between 1640 and 1680 and the maker of a watch presented by Cromwell to a certain Colonel
Bagley after the siege of Clonmel. Britten makes record of the fact that certain clock and watchmakers (William Clay
included) were accepted as members (brothers) of the Clockmakers? Company after its establishment in 1631. Usually
they were already members of another company, most notably the Blacksmiths?. Loomes, in ?The Early English
Clockmakers of Great Britain?, confirms that Clay was never officially admitted to the Company, but records that he
supported them in their dispute of 1656. It would be logical to assume that membership of any City Company, with its
rights and privileges, would be an honour that every craftsman would aspire to. However, there were disadvantages,
mainly in the form of financial contributions, known as quarterage, and many attempted to avoid this if reasonable
excuse could be found.
Bibliography:
F.J. Britten, Old Clocks and Watches and Their Makers, 6th Edition, London, 1932.
Brian Loomes, The Early Clockmakers of Great Britain, NAG Press, 1981.
Pierre Vilar, A History of Gold and Money 1450 ? 1920, Verso, 1991.
The present lot was previously sold by Antiquorum Geneva in October 1998, lot 474.