Notes
Literature:
Illustrated in Tweutieth-Cent ury Jewelrt/,
Electa / Abbeville, page 106.
When one thinks of the world's greatest jewelers, two thinks come to mind - great design
and beautiful geins. This unique piece has both. Impressive large rubies and diamonds
are brilliantly integrated into a strikingly bold design while maintaining a supple fluidity
that gracefully conforms to the neck. The central locus of the piece is the dramatic
cascading drape of fine rubies. The rubies are noteworthy for several reasons: their size,
the beautiful matching, and most important, their origin - they are all Burmese* rubies.
The diamonds are also fine and feature distinctive, unusual cuts to enhance the overall
feeling of the necklace. A most amazing point to note in this fashionable necklace is the
fact that it was created in 1938 - truly avant-garde for the time, as are so many of Cartier's
magnificent creations.
* Rubies from Burina (modem Myanmar) have always been coveted and prized as the
finest rubies in the world. The exact time of their discovery is unknown, although
legends suggest that their history goes back to ancient times. Among the first written
records are references found in the travel diaries of the Italian explorer Marco Polo dating
from the thirteen century, and mining records exist from as early as 1597. The finest
Burmese rubies have always been found , as is the case even today, in the mines of upper
Burma near the Mogok region (and should not be confused with the new mine in the
Mong Hsu district).
h1 the past, when the trade referred to Burmese rubies, it was synonymous with "the
finest color", of pure spectral red, and often made reference to the quality of the store,
not necessarily to its true country of origin. Today, when rubies are confirmed as
originating from Burina, they immediately command greater admiration and
desirability, and a higher price. Burmese rubies over two carats are also exceedingly rare
in fine quality, and the price escalates dramatically on stones over two carats, and with
each successive carat above.