The Magical Art of Cartier

Geneva, Nov 19, 1996

LOT 401

"DEAREST" Bracelet New York, 1927

CHF 11,000 - 12,000

USD 9,000 - 10,000

Sold: CHF 46,000

Set with round diamonds, carved emeralds, an amethyst, ruby, sapphire and citrine, each gemstone separated by diamond-set links and a rock crystal, rectangular shaped frame; the first letter of each gemstone forms the word "DEAREST" (d-iamond, e-merald, a-methyst, r-uby, e-merald, s-apphire, and t-opaz [actually citrine]), mounted in platinum. Measuring approx. 17.5 cm. (6.5 in.). Accompanied by leather box. Cartier Certificate of Authenticity N° 2401.


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Notes

Popular during the mid- to late-eighteenth century during the austere reign of Queen Victoria, "sentimental" jewelry provided a very romande, very poetic, and very discreet way to express special sentiments such as love and friendship. An entire secret language was spoken using flowers, hirds and other images from nature to convey one's thoughts. Books on the subject were published, such as Thomas Miller's Poetical Language of Flowers and Lançiiage and Poetry of Flozuers. Jewels carrying these images and specific words were spelled out using particular combinations of geins. "Dearest" was popular, as was "regard" (ruby, emerald, gamet, amethyst, ruby and diamond) and "cane" (coral, amethyst, ruby and emerald). At the height of their popularity sentimental jewelry was made by many firms in England and France, but by the hegimting of the Twentieth century, the age of freedom and openness, sentimental jewels began to disppear. This "dearest" bracelet is very unusal because it is rare to find sentimental jewels from the Art Deco period and even more unusual to find one created by an important firm such as the house of Cartier and in such an innovative style as tutti frutti.