The Magical Art of Cartier

Geneva, Nov 19, 1996

LOT 412

Mosaic Vanity Case New York, circa 1940

CHF 20,000 - 22,000

USD 16,000 - 18,000

Of rectangular shape, the lid covered with mosaic lapis lazuli centering a rectangular insert of inlaid mother-of-pearl, abalone shell, yellow gold, soapstone, and accented with ruby, sapphire and amethyst cabochons in a floral motif, with a diamond-set platinum push piece; the interior fitted with mirror, lipstick polder and powder compartment with screen, in 18K yellow gold (mirror is cracked), the bottom engraved with the initiais GRM. Measuring approx. 64.5 x 43 mm. Cartier Certificate of Authenticity N° 2412.


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Provenance: From the Andy Wahrol Collection. Sec biography and photo on pages 162-163. MERLE OBERON A REMARKABLE WOMAN OF POISE British actress Merle Oberon was famous not only for her exotic beauty and dazzling collection of jewels but also for her striking performances in such movie greats as "Don Juan" with Douglas Fairbanks Jr. in 1934, "Folies Bergères" with Mau rice Chevalier in 1935 and "Wuthering Heights" with Laurence Olivier in 1939. She was bora Estelle Merle O'Brien Thompson, a Eurasian of h rish descent, who lived in Tasmania and India, before settling in England. Struggling as a dance-hall hostess and bit-part movie actress, Oberon's break came when she caught the attention of director Alexander Korda. Her career was truly launched in 1933 with her role as Anne Boleyn in Korda's production of the "Private Life of Henry VIII." International recognition followed and she was soon starring in films in both Hollywood and London. She married Korda in 1939. Oberon loved jewelry and her collection of fine jewels was vast. Having lived in India, she had a special appreciation and affinity for the great Mogul jewels of the hrdian-style, so it is no wonder she was drawn to the magnificent creations of Cartier. Cartier became her favorite jeweler, and Oberon commissioned Cartier to create many important pieces for her elaborate jewelry collection, such as the emerald Indian-style necklace in this auction. A remarkable lady of great poise and personal style, Oberon not only loved the unusual, but paid attention to the little details that make so much difference. This necklace is a wonderful example of her elegant taste and sensitivity. Oberon had a special quality that was reflected in her work and personal life, she had a special "sparkle," off-stage as well as on. And the masterful creations she acquired from the House of Cartier did, indeed, reflect her own beauty and style. Literature: Hollywood Jewels, Movies * Jewelry Stars, by Penny Proddow, Debra Healy, Marion Fasel, Harry N. Abrams, Inc., Publishers, New York (USA), 1992, pages 91-93 Cartier -Jewelers Extraordinary, by Flans Nadelhoffer,1984, plate n° 28; Platinum By Cartier, Triunuphs of the 'cive/ers' Art, by Franco Cologni and Eric Nussbaum (originally published in France © 1995 by Cartier, under the title "Cartier: Joaillier du Platine") English language edition ©1996 by Cartier, published in 1996 by Harry N. Abrams, Incorporated (USA), page 179.