Important Collectors’ Wristwatches Po...

Geneva, Hotel Des Bergues, Oct 21, 1995

LOT 196

Designed & Made by J.F. Cole, AD. 1834 , with London hallmarks for 1826. Most elegant and highly important moon phase astronomical self winding "montre à tact" with perpetual calendar and special escapement and 60 hour power reserve indication.

CHF 0 - 0

C. Two body "forme quatre baguettes" engineturned, the back with the gold revolving "à tact" hand and touch-pieces on the border. D. Silver engine-turned, the eccentric chapter ring with Roman numerals, inner up-and-down sector and moon phase aperture, the lunar calendar on the border. Subsidiary dials for seconds, days of the week, months and dates and perpetual calendar, symmetrical small sectors for AM and PM and for regulator index. Gold Breguet hands. M. 21"', gilt brass with central going barrel surrounded on three sides by the platinum winding weight. Cole' s resilient lateral lever escapement, two-arm compensation balance with long screws head typical of Cole's balances, balance spring with terminal curve and regulator adjusted from the dial. Signed on the dial and inscription on scratched the inside of the winding weight. In excellent condition. Diam. 54 mm. Estimate: * * *


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Notes

Provenance: Hon. George Bennett Collection.) Although the perpetual calendar mechanism was probably first used in clockwork as early as 1710, it would appear that its application to a watch can be ascribed to Thomas Mudge circa 1760 (two examples are known to exist, the earliest number in a later case, the other, No. 574, is hallmarked 1754). Apparently the next application of such a mechanism in mainstream horology was by A. L. Breguet in the Marie Antoinette watch, commissioned in 1783, but not completed until circa 1823. James Ferguson Cole has frequently been called "The English Breguet", and certainly some of his work bears a marked siinilarity in its stylistic appearance. He was, however, very much his own man in his mechanical ideas. The watch now offered for sale is the most comélicated pocket watch dnown by Cole, and after the Marie Antoinette, the earliest known "perpetuelle perpetual" i.e. self-winding watch with perpetual calendar. Note: Very much inspired by the style of Breguet, this watch which appears to be the most complicated ever made by J.F. Cole, is not numbered and therefore could well be his master piece. Watches of this period with perpetual calendar are extremely rare. In the Cole's resilient escapement, invented in 1830, the actions of lock, lift and draw are the same as though the teeth were shaped as in dotted lines. The draw continues until the pallet strikes the incline part of the tooth which serves as an