L\'ART DE L\'HORLOGERIE EN FRANCE DE ...

Geneva, Hotel Des Bergues, Nov 14, 1993

LOT 12

P. Belon A Paris, circa 1630. Exceptionally fine and rare gold, enamel and rock crystal crucifix watch.

CHF 120,000 - 150,000

Sold: CHF 109,250

C. Double body with hinged gold frame, decorated with translucent green and opaque white enamel 'en plein' matching tulip pattern enamelled loosering pendant and finial, the interior border of black champleve enamel against an engraved sun-ray pattern, the cover similarly decorated in opaque white champleve enamel 'en plein' pattern, interior with simple hatched engraving, faceted rock crystal back and cover. D. Lobed cross-shaped gold dial plate decorated in champleve enamel with formai foliage of engraved gold and red and green translucent enamel against an opaque white ground (hard repair) with plain ring for enamelled Roman hour chapters with 'V' shaped half hour marks. Single blued-steel double ended tulip pattern hand. M. Lobed cross-shaped gilt- metal plates, turned balluster pillars, fusee with gut, four wheel train with verge escapement, plain two arm steel balance, irregular florally pierced and engraved balance cock secured by a pin, the matching ratchet wheel set-up cock with blued-steel wheel and click spring. Signed on the back plate. In excellent condition. Dim. 65 x 37 mm.


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Notes

Pierre Belon the first, a Master in 1623, watchmaker and Valet du Chambre to King Louis XIII and his Queen, Anne of Austria, from 1635 to 1648. French watches in gold, enamel and rock crystal are extremely rare, even more so in this particular form. The pattern of the dial decoration is similar to the designs of Stephanus Carteron of 1613 (see C. Cardinal, Ln Montre, Office du Livre, 1985, p.136). Although the Edict of Nantes, passed by Henri IV, had given followers of the Protestant Faith the right to their beliefs, with the accession of Louis XIII and the rise to power of Cardinal Richelieu, persecution began again in earnest. It vas certainly a time when an open display of belief in the Catholic teaching would have been beneficial, and the wearing of a cross or cross-form watch a clear sign of faith. Pierre Belon, in his capacity of watchmaker to the King would have been ideally placed to receive commissions for such watches. An example in gold and enamel would certainly have been to the order of someone highly placed at court. Curiously, Richelieu himself is known to have presented expensive watches as gifts to those \Vhom he wished to curry favour with.