Notes
Provenance: Made to the order of Count Nicholas
Nostitz of Russia, in 1876, passed on at his death
in 1896 to his brother, General Count Nostitz, who
sold the watch in the sanie year to Dr. Antonio
Augusto de Carvalho Monteiro of Portugal.
Returned by Carvalho Monteiro to L.Leroy in Paris
for additional decorative elements to be added to
the case. Retained in the collection of Dr. Carvalho
Monteiro of Portugal until 1920 when it was
acquired by Antonio Ramos Pinto of Portugal, and
remained in the same family until sold by Sotheby'
s, Geneva.
Exhibited: L'Exposition Universelle de Paris, 1878.
Literature: Droz, Flores, Leroy No.1. La Montre La
Plus Compliquée Du Monde. Horological Journal,
1878, Report on the Universal Exhibition in Paris,
1878.
Notes:
Case: The book on Leray No.1 contains an Avant-
Propos written by the firm of Leroy, in which the
history of this watch is recorded.
The relevant passage confirms that Carvalho
IVlonteiro, having acquired the watch, and being
impressed with its uniqueness, requested Leroy to
enhance the decoration of the case, the work being
carried out in Paris, and inspired by the designs of
the celebrated Renaissance artist Etienne Delosne.
Western Europe, notably France and England were
fully in the grip of a revival of interest in all things
Gothic and Renaissance, and the choice of style
was therefore most appropriate. The goldsmith
chosen to execute the work was J. Nodiot, a pupil
of Claudius Marioton, who was himself a sculptor
and chaser of great repute and a former winner of
the Concours Willemsens in 1876 and the
Concours Crozatier in 1879. According to H.Vever,
writing in La Bijouterie Française XIX i' siècle,
Marioton excelled in repoussé work in the
Renaissance style.
The back panel of the case is chased in dramatic
high relief with a considerable degree of
undercutting, such that the figures appear to be
almost free-standing. The subject matter
comprises intricate Renaissance-style strapwork,
foliage, drapery and swaps, with grotesques
surrounding a reclining naked figure of Chronos
and flanked by partially draped figures of the
Fates: Lachesis, Atrophos and Chlotos, each
holding a skein of wool. The initial M (for Monteiro)
is subtly worked into the decoration at the top
below a female mask.
Equally interesting is the pendant, executed in the
form of a double-sided visored helmet with an
enamelled Count's crown forming the winding
crown. As Carvalho Monteiro was to commission
the No. 1 from Leroy following his purchase of this
watch, the design of the crown would appear to be
to his order. However, he did not himself have a
title, and it therefore seems unlikely that he would
have ordered a watch with a crown that had an
heraldic significance. Two alternatives seem to be
viable; on the one hand, the Count's crown could
well have been executed for the original purchaser,
Count Nostitz, and retained by Monteiro, the
design being sufficiently interesting for him to
request the same for the No.1, or, perhaps more
likely, the shape was adopted from the start by
Leroy, in view of their longterm association with
the Royal family of France, and the double
meaning that can be interpreted from the name.
The company's records from the period, although
very complete, do not pive a precise explanation.
In any case, the reasoning is of little importance,
but in the interests of historical accuracy, it seems most likely that the crown vvas
not altered in 1896, when the outstanding chased
back panel was fitted.
Dials: Again the Avant-Propos for Leror/ Nol can be
quoted as a source of reference for the indications
shown on the dials of this watch, although it
appears that the firm vas less than generous
about its own achievements.
According to their own interpretation the
complications were as follows:
1. The day.
2. The date
3. The months of the bissextile years.
4. The phase and age of the moon.
5. hldependent fly-back centre-seconds
chronograph.
6. Fly-back hour recorder.
7. Fly-back minute recorder.
8. Flying 1 /5th.seconds hand.
9. Repeating of the Hours, Quarters and Minutes.
10. The Longitudes of the principal cities in
Europe and their time to the nearest minute.
11. The Longitudes of the principle cities of
Europe and America, on an alternative ring (that
is no longer with the watch).
The description does not include two additional
features that appear on the watch. These are:
12. A Thermometer in degrees centigrade.
13. An additional centre-seconds hand on the
back dial, connected to the front, and revolving
anti-clockwise.
There is evidence to support the idea that
Monteiro had a replacement Longitude ring made
for the watch, at the same time as the decoration
of the case was enhanced, as there are 9 towns
shown which are in Portugal. It seems most
unlikely that Count Nostitz would have ordered
the \-vatch with such a bics to\vards Western
Europe.
Movement: The standard of workmanship
throughout this watch is outstanding, and the
degree of complication involved quite exceptional,
particularly in view of the date when it was made.
There are in excess of 500 pieces used in its
construction. It is clear that every effort has been
made to retain a high level of timekeeping
accuracy, and to this end, all the seconds and
chronograph functions are operated from the
second barrel. The following options are available:
1. The left hand time dial runs continuously,
giving the time in hours and minutes, and also
driving the Local time dial on the back of the
watch, and the calendar functions.
2. Releasing a small detent on the edge of the case
at 7 o'clock starts the 'continuous' centre-seconds
hand and the subsidiary flying 1 /5th.seconds
driven by the independent seconds train.
3. Depressing the chronograph button on the
band of the case at 10 o'clock starts the fly-back
centre-seconds chronograph, with the second chapter-ring at 3 o'clock on the dial recording the
hours and minutes. The second press stops the
chronograph, and the third returns all 3 hands to
zero. This function is also operated from the
independent train. If started from 12 o'clock
exactly, the independent chronograph can be used
as the primary time zone dial, with the principal
hands being used to mark a second time zone and
a third may he shown on the back if required.
4. Stopping the 'continuous' centre-seconds will
stop the chronograph train, allowing for the
recording of events with intermission periods. Two
detents at 11 and 2 o'clock on the band of the case
can he engaged to provide for alternative
conventions for hand-setting; the back of the case
must be open for the operation to be performed,
and closing the back disengages the mechanism,
and locks all the functions with the exception of
the continuous seconds stop/start. On the left, the
detent sets the main time and the hands on the
reverse. On the right, the latitude pointer and the
reverse hands only are set.
It is clear that the ability to adjust the rear dial
seperately with the latitude pointer enables the
time to be shown for any selected place, or
alternatively, if the time difference is known, then
the latitude can be ascertained. It is in effect a
form of circular calculator.
Historical: Dr. Antonio Augusta de Carvalho
Monteiro ?,vas a resident of Lisbon, Portugal, and
known as a man, not only of extraordinary wealth,
but also as a scholar and a collector. His house in
Alecrim Street vas described as a veritable
museum, with its magnificent library and
collection of shells, butterflies, furniture and
silver, as well as watches. He died in Sintra on 25
October 1920.
According to Leroy, it ?,vas as a result of his
purchasing this watch that Monteiro
commissioned the firm to commence work on the
No.1. (illustrated here), in 1897 which was to be
exhibited at the. Exposition universelle, Paris, 1900,
and became the most complicated watch ever
made up to that date. Upon its final completion in
1901, it vas delivered to Monteiro by the King of
Portugal.
This watch must he included amongst that small
group of ultra-complicated timepieces that have
been created over the years to demonstrate the
highest level of skills achievable in the art of
watchmaking. Usually they have been executed to
the order of a particular client, as evinced by A.L.
Breguet's Marie-Antoinette perpetuelle, the present
watch commissioned initially by Count Nostitz, and
its successor, the No.l for Monteiro. Such
masterpieces were unsurpassed in their complexity
until the 1930's when Patek Philippe produced
their famous watch for Henry Graves, and
subsequently, more than 100 years later, the
calibre 89, which now holds the title of the World's
Most Complicated Watch.