L\'ART DE L\'HORLOGERIE EN FRANCE DE ...

Geneva, Hotel Des Bergues, Nov 14, 1993

LOT 211

Tavernier à Paris No. 354, circa 1790-1840. Highly unusual, and very fine 18 ct. three coloured gold full calendar watch in the Louis XVI style.

CHF 44,000 - 48,000

Sold: CHF 55,200

C. Double body "Louis XVI", the bezels chased with entrelacs, the back with a finely executed allegory of love and fidelity in the style of an XVIIIth century wedding presentation watch. D. White enamel chapter ring with radial Arabic numerals, outer minute ring and inner days of the week, central silver plate with apertures for months, date, the four parts of the day and phase of the moon its age engraved on the border, with manually set year. Gold Louis XVI hands. Gilt brass dial-plate edge engraved with the equation of time for each month of the year. M. Hinged gilt brass full plate with cylindrical pillars, fusee with chain, cylinder escapement, plain brass three-arm balance, flat balance spring, gilt brass pierced and engraved continental cock with garnet end-stone. The full calendar is driven from the fusee. Gilt brass dust cap. Signed on the dust cap and back plate. In very good condition. Diam. 50 mm.


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Notes

The calendar mechanism is directly driven off the fusee, instead of from the motion work as is usual. It is therefore essential to have the additional small dia] indicating the quarters of the day in order to accurately set the calendar. Such a system would have the advantage of providing the maximum power to drive the full calendar from low clown in the train, therefore reducing friction and the consequent effects on the timekeeping.It is something of a rarity. The most probable maker of this watch, in view of the fact that it was cased later in the Louis XVI style is Etienne Tavernier, born 1756, and particularly renowned for the cases he made for Breguet and his calendar keys. He was in partnership with Philippe Gros from 1830, and despite Etienne's death in 1839, the firm continued in business for some time. The case of this watch is of quite outstanding quality, and of notably heavy weight. It is fully marked with French poinçons for the period 1838, although the style of the decoration is in the tradition of the Louis XVI period. The movement, which is in itself exceptional in view of the sophisticated calendar mechanism, would date from the period just before the Revolution. That the case was made for the movement cannot be doubted, but one can only speculate as to the reason for the late date of its construction in such a royalist style. With the advent of the Revolution in France, watchmakers suffered from an almost overnight loss of their 'vealthy clients, most notably those who were accustomed to buying expensive and decorative watches in gold. There are other examples in this sale where a timepiece has remained unfinished for several decades, or been subsequently upgraded. What is so unusual about this particular watch is the case, which could only have been made for someone whose sentiments leaned strongly towards the monarchy and the fashion prevalent during the reign of France's last 'real'King, Louis XVI. The scene on the back, with flaming hearts and doves holding a garland is classic for an object intended as a token of love, and it seems certain that this watch was just such a gift, offered by a person in the court circle of Louis-Philippe