Important Wristwatches, Watches & Clocks

Geneva, Hotel Des Bergues, Apr 11, 1992

LOT 562

N K (or N R), and Bruno F (ecit). or F(rate) ?, German, circa 1650. Highly important and fine gold and enamel 'savonette' pendant watch, decorated with the story of Saint Francis of Paolo, and the harbour of Messina.

CHF 300,000 - 350,000

Sold: CHF 358,250

C.Two-part, the band enamelled en ronde bosse with flowers and foliage on a matted ground, the cover and back enamelled on both the interior and exterior surfaces with scenes relating to the life of Saint Francis of Paola, and signed Bruno F.(small chip on cover) Ring pendant, small button finial. D. GiIt-brass with Roman numerals, half and quarter-hour divisions, the centre engraved with summer flowers on a hatched ground. Single gilt-brass hand (point lacking).M. GiIt plates, monogrammed on the back, turned balluster pillars, fusee with original long-linked chain, short train with verge escapement, plain two-arm steel balance without spring. Irregular oval pierced and florally engraved balance cock, the ratchet wheel set-up with matching click and blued-steel wheel. Dotted scale and original screw hole for a bristle regulator. Monogram on the movement, enameller's signature on the back. In very good condition. Diam. 47 mm.


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Notes

This apparently unique and extraordinary watch poses several questions concerning its origins and iconography. Details in the movement and the style and technique used in the construction of the case point very strongly to a German watchmaker and enameller. Notably:the use of a chain for the fusee, which would be most unusual for French work of the period, the fitting (originally) of a bristle regulator ,virtually unknown on French watches ,and the gilt-metal dial with a gold case, which is again to be more usually associated with German work. Furthermore, there are few French makers with the initiais N K , and indeed, the florid style of the monogram is stylistically far more likely to be of germanic origin. At the time of writing, it has not been possible to establish with certainty the identity of the watchmaker, although two possibilities come to mind, depending upon the interpretation of the monogram (close inspection tends to confirm the initiais as N K ,but a reading as N R can be justified). For N K the Kreuzer family might be a possibility, and for N R, the Rugendas dynasty seems very likely; both groups were well-known both inside and outside Germany, and equally capable of making such an outstanding watch on commission. F.Bruno, the signatory, and therefore certainly the enameller of the case, appears to be completely unknown at this moment. However, since no finer German enamel watch case is known and no other signed example of his work is recorded, this is hardly surprising. Iconography. The legend depicted on the cover and back of the case is the story of the founding of the Order of the " Minimes"(Ordo Fratrum Minimorum). The founder of the Order St. Francis of Paula (1416 - 1507) is shown miraculously sailing accross the surface of the sea, with one of his companions behind him. They are depicted as moving from left to right, under the protection of eight cherubim flanking the inscription CHNRUTAS within a sunburst.Both are on their knees on a cloth of the same material as their habits, with the Saint's staff forming a mast for the 'sail' which bears the Arms of the Aragon- Pennafort family on the inside. The scene on the back of the case is a view of town of Messina, clearly the destination of St. Francis and his companion. In fact, the order of the 'Minimes' was founded in San Marco, a small town in Calabria where the the followers obtained permission from the priest of Cosenza permission to build a church and a cloisters in 1454.This was followed by the founding of several other communities in Calabria and Sicily, notably around Messina and in the town itself. The town is shown as an aerial view from the sea, protected by a curving point. In the foreground is the 'Torre' or'Laterna di San Rainieri' erected by Giovanni Angelo da Montorsoli in 1555. Behind is the 'Torre di Sant'Anna,with the fort of 'San Salvatore' which protects the entrance to the port.Right in the centre is the high 'Campanile' of the Cathedral, which collapsed following an earthquake in1783. In the Cathedral,dedicated to the 'Madonna della Lettera' (according to legend the Virgin Mary wrote a let-ter to the inhabitants of Messina in A.D. 42), there was a byzantine 'Theotokos',of miraculous power, which was destroyed during an allied bombardment in 1943. The original image was mounted within a frame surrounded by carved angels and inscribed "MR - QT / HGOPGO - EPHKOS".It has today been replaced by a replica, but the exact same subject is reproduced on the inside of the cover of the watch case, even to the point of conserving the style of the byzantine icon. The exact significance of the arms of the Aragon- Pennafort arm appearing on the watch is undetermined at this point, but certainly the island of Sicily was under the protection of the Aragon family, and it is therefore likely that it was a personal gift or possession. We gratefully acknowledge the assistance of Mrs. Hans Boeck in the preparation of this catalogue entry.