The Sandberg Watch Collection

Hotel Richemond, Geneva, Mar 31, 2001

LOT 96

Usher & Cole, Clerkenwell, London, No. 26518, especially made for John Wallace M.P., casemaker's mark P.W. for Philip Woodman, hallmarked 1890.Extremely rare and very fine 22 ct. gold, keyless, astronomical minute repeating watch with perpetual calendar and phases of the moon.

CHF 35,000 - 45,000

USD 21,000 - 27,000

Sold: CHF 40,250

C. Four-body, solid, 161 grams (over five ounces), 'bassine et filets', entirely engraved by Burgin with foliage, scrolls, and a geometrical pattern in the centre of the back cover, gold hinged cuvette. D. By Willis, white enamel, Roman chapters, outer minute divisions, four subsidiary dials for four-year leap cycle with 48 months, days of the month, days of the week and seconds, concentric, with aperture for the phases and age of the moon. Gold fleur de lis hands. M. 19''', gilt brass 3/4 platewith column pillars, 20 jewels, going barrel, lateral lever escapement with lift on the pallets, cut bimetallic compensation balance, gold mean and temperature screws, two screws platinum Breguet balance spring.Signed on the movement.Diam. 56 mm. Published in the Sandberg book, page 220-221.


LOADING IMAGES
Click to full view
Image
Grading System
Grade:
Case: 2

Very good
Movement: 3*

Good

Overhaul recommended, at buyer's expense
Dial: 2 - 01

Notes

The records of Usher Lot Cole have fortunately survived. Thanks to the research of Mr. Terence Camerer Cuss, we know the history of this watch to the smallest detail.The watch, which was made at a cost of £71.16, was sold to John Wallace on July 24, 1891 for £110. Wallace was a Member of Parliament, a timber merchant, and an inventor who registered many patents. He had a wide range of interests and became involved with a gold mine in the United States. According to family tradition, when the venture failed, all he had left was a small lump of gold that he had made into a watch - this one. At the time, cases were made of 18 carat gold, yet this is of 22 caratwhich lends credence to the family legend. Usher Lot Cole paid thecasemaker £22.4.6.The records show that the dial was made by Willis, the foremost dial maker of his day. Willis charged £2.7.0, including 3 shillings for the silver edge. The gold moon disc cost just over 4 shillings, while its engraving and enamelling by Wadley cost 5 shillings. The ebauche was bought for 15 shillings from Joseph Preston Lot Sons of Prescot, Lancashire, and was then given to Reepe to jewel. Jewelling, more expensive than the entire ebauche, cost £1.10. Then it was given to Brown, who for £26.4.6fitted it with the repeating work and the calendar, probably supplied by Montandon-Robert from Ste. Croix, or by Goy-Baud, who had an address in Lausanne. Fitting the watch with the escapement was relatively inexpensive, costing £1.6.6. This was done by a man named Costin. The charges for finishing and examining are interesting, the former costing £2.5.0, the latter £7.The company overhauled the watch in 1960 for Wallace's son, Sir John Stewart-Wallace.Usher Lot Colewas established in 1861 by Richard Wright Cole and Joseph Usher. The company was very successful at Kew Observatory trials, where they submitted both watches with fixed escapement, as well as Karusells. The Admiralty commissioned a number of chronometers from them. The Royal Geographical Society purchased most of their expedition watches. The company was taken over by Camerer Cuss Lot Co.when Richard's son, John Francis Cole, who joined the business in 1892, retired in 1960.