Important Collectors’ Wristwatches, P...

Geneva, Mandarin Oriental Hotel Du Rhône, Nov 12, 2006

LOT 205

"Art Deco Jewel" C.H. Meylan, Brassus, No. 34389. Made for Tiffany & Co., circa 1925. Fine and elegant, 18K white gold, onyx, diamond, sapphire, ruby and emerald set lady's keyless lapel watch.

CHF 20,000 - 25,000

EUR 13,000 - 16,000 / USD 16,000 - 20,000

Sold: CHF 35,400

C. Two-body, rectangular, hinged, the back decorated with a stylised vase of blossom set with shaped sapphires, rubies and emeralds on a pave-set diamond ground, panels of black onyx at the top and bottom, bezel decorated to match, integral brooch fitting decorated en suite, cabochon-set winding crown. D. Rectangular silver, Arabic numerals, outer minute track. Blued steel hands. M. 5''', rectangular, rhodium plated, "fausses cotes" decoration, 18 jewels, straight-line lever escapement, cut bimetallic compensation balance with 5 adjustments, blued steel Breguet balance spring, index regulator. Dial signed Tiffany & Co., movement signed C.H. Meylan, Brassus. Dim. 25 x 15 mm.


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Grading System
Grade: AA

Very good
Case: 3-55

Good
Movement: 3*

Good

Overhaul recommended, at buyer's expense
Dial: 4-8-04

Fair

Slightly scratched

HANDS Later

Notes

This lapel watch is an example of the high quality jewels made at the height of the Art Deco period. The fashion for jewels set with shaped cabochon stones forming stylised images lasted from about 1922 to about 1928. There was a large amount of work involved in producing these pieces as all the colored stones had to be cut to fit the required shapes. All the famous jewelers of the period made these jewels, including Cartier, Boucheron, Tiffany, Heyman Brothers and Lacloche Freres. For a description of the making process, see: Antiquorum, Vox Magazine, "Oscar Heyman & Brothers, Katryn Bonanno Patrizzi, p. 8 & 9. C. H. Meylan