Important Collectors Wristwatches, Po...

Geneva, Nov 14, 2009

LOT 340

Cloisonne Dial ? Indian Flag ? 1947 Independence ? Indian Royal Provenance Universal Genève, case No. 150556*, Ref. 112167. Made circa 1951-1952. Fine and very rare, 18K yellow gold wristwatch with cloisonné enamel dial featuring the Indian subcontinent and Indian flag.

CHF 6,000 - 9,000

USD 6,000 - 9,000 / EUR 4,000 - 6,000

Sold: CHF 16,800

C. Three-body, solid, polished and brushed, curved bezel, straight curved lugs, the back with engraved monogram (KIA) beneath a crown. D. Bombe, polychrome cloisonné enamel on gold with counter enamel, representing India after its 1947 independence from British rule, enamel decorated with the Indian flag with Chakra, applied yellow gold triangular indexes and Arabic quarter-hour numerals. Yellow gold dauphine hands. M. Cal. 262, rhodium plated, 17 jewels, straight-line lever escapement, monometallic balance, selfcompensating flat balance spring, index regulator. Case and movement signed. Diam. 35 mm. Thickness 10 mm.

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Grading System
Grade: AAA


Case: 3


Movement: 3-10*



Overhaul recommended, at buyer's expense

Dial: 3-25-01



HANDS Original


This is one of the earliest known examples of the cloisonné technique applied to a wristwatch dial. Cloisonné enamels came back into fashion at the end of the 1940's and became quite popular during the early 1950's. This watch, celebrating the 1947 Independence, was probably made on special order, in view of the personalized inscription on the back, commissioned by the Universal distributor for the region. The large K in the monogram suggests that the watch was intended for a member of the Royal Family of Kochi, or the Kutlehar Royal Family. Despite the lack of marks or signature on the reverse of the dial, the work is of remarkable quality, typical of the Genevan production of the period. The dial is particularly interesting because it combines the techniques of cloisonné and painting on enamel. Whilst the major part of the dial is cloisonné, the central Chakra is handpainted in miniature on enamel.