Exceptional Horological Works of Art

Geneva, Oct 19, 2002

LOT 41

Gold Feathers and Flowers Ilbery, London, No. 5809, made for the Chinese Market, circa 1815. Very rare and highly decorative 18K gold and enamel center seconds watch with decoration entirely composed of gold paillons and with special escapement.

CHF 28,000 - 34,000

EUR 19,000 - 23,000

Sold: CHF 39,100

C. Three-body, the back in translucent dark blue enamel over spiral engine-turning centered with a gold rosette encircled with a paillon peacock feather frame, the border with a very fine gold, green and red paillon vine motif, the bezels, pendant and bow, with champlevé enameled decoration. D. White enamel with radial Roman numerals, outer minute and seconds track with 15 minute/seconds Arabic markers. Gold "heart" hands. M. 50 mm. (22???), hinged gilt brass full plate with cylindrical pillars, going barrel, ruby duplex escapement, plain polished steel five-arm balance, flat balance spring with index regulator and diamond endstone, large gilt brass cock chased with flowers and scrolled foliage. Gilt brass dust cap. Signed on the back plate. Diam. 59 mm.


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Grading System
Grade: AAA

Excellent

Case: 3

Good

Movement: 3*

Good

Overhaul recommended, at buyer's expense

Dial: 3 - 01

Notes

A magnificent example of an unusal decorative technique, in which the motifs are entirely composed of gold paillons. William Ilbery, (c. 1760-1839) Active in London from 1780 in Goswell Street, he moved to Duncan Terrace towards the end of the 18th century. Following James Cox in London and Jaquet Droz in Switzerland, he too specialized in the production of luxury watches for the Chinese market. His early production was very much in the English style, featuring a full plate movement and an English type single wheel duplex escapement; however, for his highest quality watches he incorporated a spring detent escapement. The cases were also very much in the style of those produced in England at the time. Later, the watch movements he produced were much inspired by the Lepine caliber with free-standing barrel, as were Jaquet Droz?s Swiss production signed in London and that of William Anthony, who worked in London. He organized the production in Switzerland, mainly in Fleurier, of profusely engraved movements for the Asian market. He was followed in this by makers such as Bovet and Juvet who also worked in Fleurier (Val de Travers). Ilbery can therefore be considered one of the most representative makers of "Chinese" watches. The cases of his watches were decorated in Geneva by the best enamelers, such as Jean-Francois-Victor Dupont, who often signed his work, and Jean-Louis Richter, whose enamels were generally not signed. He seems to have maintained close contacts with the continental trade, since a watch signed "Ilbery Paris" is known and Ilbery & Son are recorded in London and Fleurier, as well as in Canton.