Important Watches, Collector's Wristw...

Noga Hilton, Geneva, Jun 14, 2003

LOT 247

Genevan, probably Abraham Arlaud I, made for the Islamic market, circa 1660. Very fine and rare oval gold gilt brass and enamel single hand pre balance spring pendant watch.

CHF 30,000 - 40,000

EUR 20,000 - 27,000 / USD 23,000 - 31,000

Sold: CHF 43,700

C. Two-body, "bassine" with curved band, polished, shutter for winding, bezel split for glass retention, short swivel pendant, loose ring. D. Oval, en ronde bosse enamel on gold, applied gold chapter ring with Islamic numerals, half hour arrow divisions and small markers for the quarters, applied on an enameled plate centered by a six-petaled flower in translucent green enamel over a flinqué ground, framed by white enamel painted with pink and burgundy floral decoration, outside the chapter rintranslucent green enamel crescents decorated similarly to the flower. Gold "tulip" hand. M. 29.1 x 32.4 mm., hinged, gilt brass full plate finely engraved, bearing the maker's signature in Islamic characters, unusual pierced rectangular pillars, fusee and gut line for the going train, two-arm steel circular foliot, elongated cock pierced and symmetrically engraved with floral decoration, conical foot secured by a screw, ratchet wheel and click set-up under the barrel, with calibration on the bak plate by a pointer. Signed on the movement in Islamic characters.Dim. 35 x 45 mm.Published in the Sandberg Book, pp 228-229.


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Grading System
Grade: AAA

Excellent
Case: 3 - 14
Movement: 3*

Good

Overhaul recommended, at buyer's expense
Dial: 3 - 23 - 01

Notes

This watch was clearly made in Geneva. It is characterized by the extreme sophistication of the movement for which Genevese watchmakers were famous. In addition, the movement features elements common to other Genevese watches, very unusual pillars and a typical manner of finishing the wheels and the fusee, as well as the characteristic shape of the cock. These same elements can be seen in lot 256 made by Isaac Perrot and lot 264, made by Jean and Jacques Rousseau, of the Lord Sandberg sale held on March 31 and April 1, 2001, as well as in lot 492 of Antiquorum's sale of April 12 and 13, 2003. The watch, though it is clearly intended for the Islamic market, does not, however, show the classic features of Turkish watches. It was therefore probably intended for a wider audience, that is, the area between Turkistan and Industan. This can be seen, among other things, by the choice of colours used for the dial decoration, typical of Moghul art of the 16th, 17th, and 18th century, as well as the Farsi iconography of the dial. An almost identical watch, signed by Arlaud, and also made for the Islamic market, is in the Musée International de l'horlogerie, Château des Monts, La Chaux-de-Fonds, inv. o. 1-555.