The Private Collection of Theodor Beyer

Hotel Baur Au Lac, Zurich, Nov 16, 2003

LOT 93

"Bras en l'air". Verger, France, No. 11538, movement by Haas Neveux, Geneva, made for Charlton & Co., New York, circa 1930. Very fine and extremely rare 18K two-colored gold, Art Deco keyless "bras-en-l'air" dress watch.

CHF 30,000 - 40,000

EUR 20,000 - 26,000 / USD 22,000 - 30,000

C. Three piece, "Empire", white gold, coin-edge band, polished and matte, yellow gold rims and bow. D. Silver matte, with an applied figure of a seated Chinese Mandarin pointing to the hours and minutes with his arms when a pushpiece in the band is depressed. M. By Haas Neveux, 38.3 mm (17'''), rhodium-plated, "fausses côtes" decoration, Geneva Hallmark quality, 18 jewels, eight adjustments, straight line lever escapement, cut bimetallic compensation balance with Breguet balance spring.Signed on the movement, Verger master mark on the case.Diam. 45 mm.


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Grading System
Grade: AA

Very good
Case: 3

Good
Movement: 3*

Good

Overhaul recommended, at buyer's expense
Dial: 3-01

Good

HANDS Original

Notes

The current lot is a very fine example of the so-called "bras en l'air" watches, featuring one of the most original ways to display time invented during the second part of the 18th century. This type of watch enjoyed a revival during the Art Deco period thanks to Ferdinand Verger, who produced them for the best jewelers such as Van Cleef & Arpels in Paris, Gübelin in Lucerne, and Charlton & Co., Caldwell, and Tiffany in the U.S.A., using movements by Haas Neveux and Vacheron Constantin. Verger. Two generations of designers and casemakers. The firm was founded by Ferdinand Verger in 1872, Place des Victoires à Paris. Verger had two sons, Georges and Henri. In 1896 the trade mark "F.V." was registered. Ferdinand Verger bought the firm of Lépine, Place des Victoires, from Roux in 1901, and in 1914 he sold the remaining stock to Louis Leroy but kept the trademark, which he registered again in 1917.Successors of their father in 1911, Georges and Henri settled at 51 rue Sainte Anne under the name of Verger Frères. Their master-mark became "V.F.". They were the Paris agent for Vacheron & Constantin. Not only wholesalers but also designers and case-makers, they produced cases for the finest jewelers of the world,including Boucheron, Mauboussin, Ostertag, Tiffany, La Cloche, Cartier, Van Cleef & Arpels, Gübelin and even Hauser-Zivy y Cia. in Mexico. They employed up to 40 craftsmen in Paris, not only jewelers, to produce cases and to fit the movements, but also watchmakers for adjusting and after-sale service of the movements. Some of their models are very original, such as the so-called "Bras en l'air", made with a figure of the Buddha, a snake charmer or a Mandarin; the famous "radiateur", often sold as a purse clasp; the "montres à volets" produced for Ostertag, Van Cleef & Arpels, Boucheron, Mauboussin, Gübelin and Tiffany; and the celebrated "Montre Cadenas" specially designed for Van Cleef & Arpels. The revival of the fashion for dials and cases with painted miniatures on ivory panels count among their great successes. They also were the creators of magnificent clocks with dials in pietra dura and of the outstanding mystery clocks which were the pride of Cartier and Vacheron & Constantin in the 1920s and 30s.