The Longitude at the Eve of the Third...

Geneva, Hotel Des Bergues, Oct 23, 1999

LOT 191

Glycine, 1930's.Very fine and rare, rectangular à couvercle, 18K white and yellow gold gentleman's wristwatch with concealed dial.

CHF 10,000 - 12,000

C. three body, bicolour, massive, polished, yellow gold cover with a white gold rectangular ring decoration and white gold edges, opening by means of two push-pieces near the lugs at 6, hinged case back, lapidated lugs. D. champagne with painted Arabic numerals, auxiliary seconds dial. "Breguet" blued steel hands.M. 8''' tonneau, rhodium plated, 18 jewels, lever escapement, cut bimetallic balance, flat balance-spring.Signed on the movement, stamped on the case.Dim. 27 x 40 mm.


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Grading System
Grade: AAA

Excellent

Case: 3

Good

Movement: * 4 - 5
Dial: 3 - 01

Notes

Wristwatches with concealed dialShortly after 1920, wristwatches were selling better than pocket watches. Most eminent designers and makers were keen to find, for sport and everyday wristwatches, an equivalent to the popular hunting cased pocket watches which can easily be personalised with a monogram or enamelled decoration on the cover.Cartier and Verger, in France, used improvements such as the guillotine with sliding shutters, already invented for dress watches, and Léon Hatot, with the Montre bracelet ouvrante, featuring a spring loaded hinged cover, presented his own solution. Cartier, with its Savonnette model, also used a hinged cover, without it being spring loaded.Hatot's solution was also adopted by most of the Swiss designers such as Wenger, Niton as well as those working for Vacheron Constantin and Patek Philippe.In this respect, one of the most successful solutions was that ofthe celebrated Reverso invented by René Chauvot (French Patent No. 712868 from March 4, 1931), first produced by Fontainemelon S.A., often retailed by Gübelin, and then acquired by Jaeger LeCoultre.The cases of most of the watches with concealed dial, produced between 1920 and 1935, were of high quality, often with engraved decoration on the band and bezel; the cover was sometimes made in two coloured gold with geometrical decoration in an Art Deco pattern.