Notes
Suzanne Belperron, French jewelry designer, was born in
Bescanon in 1900. She studied at the Ecole des Beaux-Arts in
Paris where she most probably met Germaine Boivin, sister of
Rene Boivin, the famous jeweler. Although Boivin died in 1919,
the business was taken over by his wife, Jeanne Boivin, a sister of
Paul Poiret. Suzanne Belperron worked for the Maison Boivin
from 1921 to 1931, during which time she married Jean
Belperron (1927). In 1933, she entered into partnership with
pearl dealer Bernard Herz and the jewelry she created was sold
under the name of Herz in his shop at 59, rue de Chateaudun.
In the 1930's her major clients were the Duke and Duchess of
Windsor, Elsa Schiaparclli, Franck Sinatra, Diana Vreeland, Fred
Astaire and French novelist Colette. During WW2, her partner
Bernard Herz was deported to a concentration camp where he
died in 1943, while his son Jean was taken war prisoner. To
safeguard the company, Suzanne Belperron transferred it in her
name and in 1945, on Jean's return, they both agreed to change
the company name to Jean Ilertz-Suzanne Belperron, which
remained so until her retirement in 1974. Nonetheless, Suzanne
Belperron continued to design, meet and advise her old clients
until her death in Paris in 1983. In her art, Suzanne Belperron
distanced herself from tradition, mixing freely colors and
materials. Her inspiration came from nature, starfish, seashells,
butterflies, leaves and flowers, of which she sought to fathom
the essence as opposed to achieving realistic renderings. She
therefore transformed these forms taken from nature into
abstract creations exuding life and sensuality. In particular, her
style was characterized by a new and extensive use of rock
crystal.