Important Watches, Wristwatches and C...

Geneva, Hotel Des Bergues, Apr 24, 1999

LOT 397

Attributable to Suzanne Belperron, Paris, circa 1935. Very fine and unusual 18K gold mounted rock crystal keyless Art Deco ring watch.

CHF 16,000 - 20,000

Sold: CHF 29,095

C. Two piece, rock crystal body, ring and shoulders, the rectangular bezel between two gold polished bars. D. Satine silver with Arabic numerals and indexes. M. 4"' , rectangular, nickel plated, 17 jewels, straight line lever escapement, bimetallic balance, Breguet balance spring. Dim. 26 x 13 mm.


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Grading System
Grade: AAA

Excellent

Case: 4-10

Fair

Patinated

Movement: *4-5

Fair

Overhaul recommended, at buyer's expense

Poor

Dial: 4-5-01

Fair

Poor

HANDS Original

Notes

Suzanne Belperron, French jewelry designer, was born in Bescanon in 1900. She studied at the Ecole des Beaux-Arts in Paris where she most probably met Germaine Boivin, sister of Rene Boivin, the famous jeweler. Although Boivin died in 1919, the business was taken over by his wife, Jeanne Boivin, a sister of Paul Poiret. Suzanne Belperron worked for the Maison Boivin from 1921 to 1931, during which time she married Jean Belperron (1927). In 1933, she entered into partnership with pearl dealer Bernard Herz and the jewelry she created was sold under the name of Herz in his shop at 59, rue de Chateaudun. In the 1930's her major clients were the Duke and Duchess of Windsor, Elsa Schiaparclli, Franck Sinatra, Diana Vreeland, Fred Astaire and French novelist Colette. During WW2, her partner Bernard Herz was deported to a concentration camp where he died in 1943, while his son Jean was taken war prisoner. To safeguard the company, Suzanne Belperron transferred it in her name and in 1945, on Jean's return, they both agreed to change the company name to Jean Ilertz-Suzanne Belperron, which remained so until her retirement in 1974. Nonetheless, Suzanne Belperron continued to design, meet and advise her old clients until her death in Paris in 1983. In her art, Suzanne Belperron distanced herself from tradition, mixing freely colors and materials. Her inspiration came from nature, starfish, seashells, butterflies, leaves and flowers, of which she sought to fathom the essence as opposed to achieving realistic renderings. She therefore transformed these forms taken from nature into abstract creations exuding life and sensuality. In particular, her style was characterized by a new and extensive use of rock crystal.