Important Watches, Wristwatches and C...

Geneva, Hotel Des Bergues, Apr 24, 1999

LOT 618

German, the ring late 16th century, the cameo circa 1500. Important and exceptionally rare gold, enamel and ruby `Sundial' ring.

CHF 120,000 - 140,000

Ring: Oval hoop terminating in volute scrolls enamelled in translucent green, white, dark blue and black (small chips), the hinged oval bezel enamelled en suite, and set with a carved ruby cameo of the Virgin and Child. She is veiled and cradles the Child in one arm, the other is drawn across her breast to clasp His hand outstretched towards her heart. Sundial: A thumbpiece allows the cover to open to 90 degrees, revealing the sundial. The ring body contains an inset magnetic compass under glass, with iron needle, with the chapters and hour lines engraved on the gold retaining ring; Arabic numerals with `Z' in place of conventional `2's. A string gnomon runs from the `6.30' position to the edge of the cover. Dim: 28 x 24 mm.


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Grading System
Grade:
Case: 3

Good

Notes

Provenance Reputedly in the jewel collection of the King of Naples. Exhibition Colnaghi, Objects For A "Wunderkammer ; London 1981, cat. No. 4, described by Diana Scarisbrick. Literature For another example of a ruby cameo of this subject see: J. Szendrei, Catalogue Descriptif et Illustre de la Collection de Bagues de Madame Gustave de Tarnoczy, Paris 1889, p. 76, Group LU, No. 98. For other locket rings incorporating sundials see O. M. Dalton, Catalogue of the Finger Rings, Early Christian Medieval and Later in the British Museum, London, 1912, Nos. 1703, et seq. Although sundial rings of any period are very rare, there are records describing the existence of such jewels in the 16th century. John Nichols (1746-1826) in his book `Progresses of Queen Elizabeth', records that in 1579 the Earl of Russel gave the Queen "A ring of golde, called a paramadas, sett with vj small diamonds, and garnished round about with small rubies and two sparcks of ophalls, and in the same backeside a dyall". A gold, enamel and jewelled ring with sundial dating from the 16th century is preserved in the collections of the British Museum.