Important Modern & Vintage Timepieces

Geneva, Nov 10, 2013

LOT 362

PATEK PHILIPPE YELLOW GOLD OFFICIER Patek Philippe & Cie/ Bailey Banks and Biddle Co, Genève, No. 120013, case No. 120013. Made in 1902, sold on June 4th 1903. Very fine and rare 18K yellow gold "Officier" wristwatch. Accompanied by the Extract from the Archives.

CHF 10,000 - 15,000

HKD 83,000 - 125,000 / USD 10,500 - 16,000

Sold: CHF 17,500

Four-body, solid, polished, hinged case back and cuvette, wire lugs with screws. White enamel with painted Breguet luminous numerals, outer minute track. Blued steel luminous spade hands. Cal. 12''', gilt brass, 15 jewels, wolf's tooth winding, straight-line lever escapement "moustache" cut bimetallic compensation balance, blued steel flat balance spring, index regulator. Dial, case and movement signed.


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Grading System
Grade: AAA

Excellent

Case: 3

Good

Movement: 2*

Very good

Overhaul recommended, at buyer's expense

Dial: 2-01

Very good

HANDS Original

Notes

DIAM. 33 mm. THICKNESS 10 mm. This fascinating and very beautiful watch is an important addition in the history of the split-second chronograph wristwatch and no doubt conceived as a result of Tiffany's familiarity with some of Patek Philippe's very first split-seconds chronograph wristwatches sold through its New York branch in the 1920s. The extract from the Patek Philippe archives states that the movement was sold without a case and describes the dial as white enamel with Breguet numerals. Evidently both the movement and dial must have been made specifically for Tiffany because both have been signed as such before leaving Patek Philippe's hands. Naturally, in 1900 this movement would have been sold to Tiffany intended for use in a pocket watch. However, possibly due to the very unusual and rare configuration amongst Patek Philippe watches of a 60-minute and 12-hour register rather than a subsidiary seconds and register, this watch may have remained unused in Tiffany's stock for perhaps two decades before being chosen probably at the special request of a customer to be cased as an impressive, and at the time, state of the art wristwatch. The heavy gold case is very well made and fully signed Tiffany & Co., there is no doubt that it is of period manufacture and stylistically can be compared to both the earliest known Patek Philippe split-seconds chronograph wristwatch (No. 124824) of 1923 and Patek No. 198206 of 1928 also retailed by Tiffany which has the same distinctive curved hinged and screw lugs. This would support a date for the case of between the mid and late 1920s when the first few Patek Philippe split-seconds chronograph wristwatches passed through the hands of Tiffany & Co. The movement and dial were delivered without the case and Bailey Banks and Biddle manufactured the case with numbers matching the movement.