Important Watches, Collector's Wristw...

Noga Hilton, Geneva, Jun 14, 2003

LOT 283

Patek, Philippe & Cie., Genève, No. 180455, case No. 401232, made for Bunde & Upmeyer Co., Milwaukee, Wisconsin, circa 1920. Very fine and very rare 18K gold keyless dress watch with blue sapphire jewels.

CHF 7,000 - 9,000

EUR 4,700 - 6,000 / USD 5,500 - 7,000

Sold: CHF 29,900

C. Four-body, "bassine", polished, gold hinged cuvette. D. White enamel, radial Arabic numerals, outer minute track, subsidiary sunk seconds. Blued steel "Cathedral" hands. M. 38 mm. (17'''), patented cal. 21o, nickel, oil-stone finish, 18 blue sapphire jewels, straight line calibrated lever escapement, cut bimetallic compensation balance with Breguet balance spring. Signed on dial, case and movement, case and movement signed also by the retailer. Diam. 45 mm.


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Grading System
Grade: AAA

Excellent

Case: 3

Good

Movement: 3*

Good

Overhaul recommended, at buyer's expense

Dial: 3 - 01

Notes

Patek Philippe watches, or any other maker's watches for that matter with sapphire jewels are very rare. A few are known by Ekegrén, a few by Koehn, and another one by Patek Philippe. All were made for the American market. The most famous of all "blue sapphire" watches is the "Edward Howard" launched circa 1910 by the American company "Keystone". It was an extraordinary watch with sapphire jewels, jeweled banking pins, and Gyromax-like free-sprung balance. The watch attracted a great deal of attention and in the States was considered a marvel of modern watchmaking. In fact it was a revolutionary product, employing a gyromax-type balance decades before Patek Philippe. Its price was $350. By way of comparison, at the time 1916-17, a Ford Model T cost five dollars less: $345. It appears that Bunde & Upmeyer decided to cash in on the reputation of the "Blue Sapphire Howard" and asked Patek Philippe to make a similar watch with blue sapphires. The company, always ready to take up a challenge, obliged.