Important Modern & Vintage Timepieces

Geneva, May 10, 2025

LOT 639

PATEK PHILIPPE, SWITZERLAND, REF. 3800/5J-001, NAUTILUS, DIAMOND BEZEL AND MIDDLE LINKS, 18K YELLOW GOLD

CHF 50,000 - 80,000

HKD 476,000 - 760,000 / USD 62,000 - 98,000 / EUR 54,000 - 86,000

A fine and very rare, 18k yellow gold, self winding center-seconds wristwatch with diamond bezel and middle links


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Grading System
Grade:
Case: 2-8

Very good

Slightly scratched

Movement: 2

Very good

Dial: 2-02

Very good

HANDS Service hands

Brand Patek Philippe, switzerland

Model Nautilus

Reference 3800/5J-001

Year circa 1984

Movement No. 1424187

Case No. 2811213

Bracelet 18k yellow gold and diamond Patek Philippe bracelet, approx. overall length 175 mm.

Diameter 36

Caliber 335 SC, 29 jewels

Signature dial, case and movement

Accessories original fitted box, Patek Philippe overhaul dated April 2024

Notes

Launched in 1976, during the quartz crisis, the “Nautilus” was designed by Gérald Genta (1931-2011). The shape of its case, very avant-garde for the time, reminds a porthole. It was named after Captain Nemo’s fictitious submarine, in Jules Verne’s famous book “Twenty Miles Under the Sea”.

Produced from 1981 to 2006, the Nautilus Ref. 3800 is considered as the “little sister” of the Ref. 3700, the very first “Nautilus” having been designed five years earlier. The Ref. 3700 has a 42 mm. cushion-shaped case, known as the “Jumbo” size. The Ref. 3800 measures only 37 mm. in diameter but retains exactly the same spirit as its ancestor: an extra-flat cushion-shaped case, a bluish grey dial with horizontal stripes and the date at 3 o’clock. The only difference, except the size of the case, is a centre-seconds hand, which is not included in Ref. 3700.

The “Nautilus” being considered as the sport-chic wristwatch by Patek Philippe, it was predominantly created in steel with a few exceptions, in gold, or in steel and gold. However, versions in yellow gold featuring a 3-row diamond-set bezel and middle links, like this lot are extremely rare.

Early models feature Calibre 335 SC without the quick-set date feature through the crown. The quick-date only arrives in 1987, while keeping the Calibre 335 SC. In 1992, a third generation was introduced featuring Calibre 330-134, and finally Calibre 330-194 was employed for the watches made from 1997 to 2006, year of discontinuation.

The dial is a “sigma dial”, meaning the index-markers and hands are manufactured from gold. From 1971 until 1995, all watches made in Switzerland with gold applied indexes or gold dial plates were required to have the “APRIOR” (Association pour la Promotion Industrielle de l’Or) logo marked on the dial. Hence, on the dial on each side of the “SWISS”, there is the Greek letter “sigma”.

Therefore, this model from 1984 represents the 1st generation of Ref. 3800 with a “sigma dial” and equipped with 335 SC calibre. The watch has just been completely overhauled by Patek Philippe in April 2024 and the accompanying invoice details the new deployant clasp.

Provenance

Property of a Japanese Gentleman