Antiquorum Auctioneers since 1974

Important Modern & Vintage Timepieces

New York, Oct 18, 2026

LOT 20 *

PATEK PHILIPPE, SWITZERLAND, REF. 96J, CALATRAVA, 18K YELLOW GOLD

USD 30,000 - 50,000

EUR 26,400 - 44,000 / HKD 236,000 - 394,000 / CHF 24,900 - 41,500 / JPY 4,740,000 - 7,890,000

A very rare and possibly unique early yellow gold calatrava, manual wind with unusual silvered dial wristwatch

Buyers are advised that lots from outside the USA (Identified by an*) are subject to applicable import taxes and customs-related charges:
If the lot is delivered within the USA:
The applicable import taxes and duties are due on the hammer price plus the Buyer’s Premium, in addition to USD 180 for the termination of the temporary import, at the Buyer’s expense.
If the lot is delivered outside the USA:
USD 180 for the termination of the temporary import is due, at the Buyer’s expense.
Grading System
Grade: AA

Very good

Case: 3-6

Good

Slightly oxidized

Movement: 3*

Good

Overhaul recommended, at buyer's expense

Dial: 3-6-01

Good

Slightly oxidized

HANDS Original

Brand Patek Philippe, Switzerland

Model Calatrava

Reference 96J

Year 1932

Movement No. 161 566

Case No. 294 412

Bracelet Leather bracelet

Caliber 12'' lever escapement

Diameter 31mm

Weight 35,75g

Accessories extrat of the archives and complete Tortella analysis

Notes

Fine and historically important 18K yellow gold manual-winding wristwatch, featuring a highly unusual silvered matte dial with subsidiary seconds, applied faceted gold indexes, distinctive double index at 12 o’clock, delicate dotted outer minute track and period-correct gold hands.
Manufactured in 1932, the present watch dates from the very first year of production of the reference 96, Patek Philippe’s landmark early Calatrava.

According to an analysis by horological scholar and Patek Philippe specialist Dr. Marco Tortella, the watch displays a highly unusual combination of characteristics. Tortella particularly noted the unusual construction of the dial and its thick, faceted applied indexes, together with characteristics of the case consistent with very early production.
More importantly, it is the combination of dial, indexes, hands, case and movement that distinguishes the present watch from known examples of the reference.

The Patek Philippe archives do not describe the original dial configuration, preventing definitive archival confirmation. However, extensive research has so far failed to identify another reference 96 with this exact configuration.
A fascinating and highly distinctive example of one of Patek Philippe’s most historically important references.