Important Collectors’ Watches, Pocket...

Geneva, Oct 14, 2007

LOT 525

Ref. 605, "World Time - Cloisonné World Planisphere Dial" Patek Philippe & Co., Genève, No. 930837, case No. 654936, Ref. 605 HU (Heures Universelles). Made in 1948, sold on May 26, 1956. Very fine and extremely rare, 18K yellow gold, keyless, "World Time" dress watch, the polychrome cloisonné enamel dial representing a planisphere map of the world. Accompanied by the Extract from the Archives.

CHF 100,000 - 140,000

EUR 60,000 - 85,000 / USD 85,000 - 115,000

Sold: CHF 301,700

C. Three-body, solid, "variée", polished with satiné back and milled revolving bezel. D. Cloisonné enamel with the planisphere map of the world and applied yellow gold Roman indexes, outer Arabic dark and light revolving chapter ring for day and night hours and the world time chapter ring, bearing the name of 41 locations around the world and revolving with the bezel according to the Louis Cottier world time patent. Yellow gold hands. M. Cal. 17'''-170 HU, rhodium-plated, "fausses-côtes" decoration, 18 jewels, straight- line lever escapement, cut bimetallic compensation balance adjusted to heat, cold, isochronism and five positions, blued steel Breguet balance spring with swan-neck micrometer regulator. Dial, case and movement signed. Diam. 45 mm. From ?The Collection?


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Grading System
Grade:
Case: 3

Good

Movement: 3*

Good

Overhaul recommended, at buyer's expense

Dial: 3-01

Good

HANDS Original

Notes

Ref. 605 HU was produced between the 1940s and 1960s, and is a series of dress watches bearing the names of approximately 30 to 41 cities in the world on their revolving bezel. Some examples have a matte silvered dial or black dial; others have a cloisonné enamel dial. They were made as follows: - in pink gold, with silvered guilloché dial - in pink gold, with translucent enamel dial - in pink gold, with cloisonné enamel dial representing various continents - in yellow gold, with silvered guilloché dial - in yellow gold, with translucent enamel dial - in yellow gold, with cloisonné enamel dial representing various continents . One example is known to date in white gold, with a cloisonné enamel dial representing various continents. The dial with cloisonné "world planisphere" is the rarest of the cloisonné dials. One of these was sold by Antiquorum, Geneva, in "The Art of Patek Philippe", November 11, 1999, as lot 525. Other variants of the cloisonné "map" dials are: "North America" and "Europe, Africa & Asia".

About the ?World Time? system The ?World Time? system was invented around 1935 by Louis Cottier (1894-1966), a well-known independent watchmaker in Geneva. This ?World Time? system was used by Patek Philippe and by other major names in the Swiss watch industry, such as Agassiz, Rolex, and Vacheron Constantin. Patek Philippe created various series of ?World Timers? from 1937 to the mid-1960s:

Ref. 515, a rectangular ?galbé? pink gold model made in 1937, with the names of 28 cities in the world on the dial, the time differences between them based on Greenwich Mean Time. The earliest known, only three examples are known to exist today. One was sold by Antiquorum, Geneva, on April 10, 1994, lot 502, for SFr. 550'000 (US$ 388,560).

Ref. 542 HU (Ø 28 mm.), started around 1937, bears the names of approximately 30 cities in the world on the revolving bezel. Only four examples are known to date, three of which were sold by Antiquorum: - Geneva, October 17, 1993, lot 431, at SFr. 121,000 (US$ 81,700). - Geneva, April 10, 1994, lot 500, with unusual bezel and hands, at SFr. 231'000 (US$164,200). - Geneva, October 15-16, 1994, lot 608, at SFr. 110'000 (US$ 87,300).

Ref. 96 HU Calatrava, with the names of 28 cities in the world on the dial, appears to be an unique example made in 1939.

Ref. 130, of which only one example is known and which was made on special order by Patek Philippe in 1939, is an 18K yellow gold mnemonic ?World Time? chronograph wristwatch, with square push buttons, register and tachometer. This watch does not have a ?World Time? movement but features a ?World Time? dial with the names of 24 cities of the world. The time difference between the various cities is based on Berlin, which is placed at noon. This watch was sold by Antiquorum, Geneva, on April 18-19, 1998, lot 40, for SFr. 355?500 (US$ 235,000), establishing a world record for this type of watch.

Ref. 1415 HU began to be produced around 1939-1940. It has teardrop-shaped lugs (Ø 31 mm.), and on the revolving bezel the names of approximately 30 to 41 cities in the world. This model was produced: - in yellow gold with silvered dial - in yellow gold with cloisonné enamel dial representing various continents - in pink gold, with silver, champagne or pink dial - in pink gold, with cloisonné enamel dial representing variouscontinents - Antiquorum sold such a watch in Geneva, on November 13-14, 1999, lot 520, which set a World Record for this type f model, at SFr. 1,345,500 (US$ 868,065). - in platinum with silvered dial. The only known example was sold by Antiquorum, Geneva, on April 13-14, 2002, lot 608, for SFr. 6'603'500 (US$ 4,026,500), establishing a world record.

Ref. 1416 HU is similar to Ref. 1415HU and was produced at the same time, with the only difference that it has straight ?claw? lugs. Three examples are known today.

Ref. 1415-1 was created in 1940, especially for Dr. P. Schmidt. This is a unique ?World Time? chronograph wristwatch, in yellow gold, with square push buttons and the names of 33 cities of the world. It was auctioned by Antiquorum, Geneva, on October 15-16, 1994, lot 516, attaining what at the time was a World Record at SFr. 990,000 (US$ 785,714). This watch is illustrated on the front cover and on p. 270 of the 1998 edition of ?Patek Philippe Wristwatches?, by Martin Huber & Alan Banbery