Notes
Amongst the various complications popular in contemporary wristwatches, the chronograph offers a most practical function in a
broad spectrum of situations. Unlike early pocket watch predecessors, which, in a cumbersome process, required ink to literally
write an elapsed period of time onto the dial, today?s user can quickly and conveniently activate the chronograph function by the push
of a button, measuring short time intervals in addition to the watch?s general purpose of permanently displaying the hours, minutes
and seconds. Hence and not surprising, almost all manufacturers offer a basic chronograph or models with added complications in
their catalogues.
Not a chronograph pioneer, Rolex focused its energies entirely on the water-resistant ?Oyster? and self-winding ?Perpetual? models.
The success of these wristwatches pushed the firm into the position of a ?sports watch? manufacturer and logically, Rolex presented
its first chronograph in the 1930s, but rather than developing a proprietary movement in a costly process, decided on an economical,
yet reliable, ?Valjoux? movement like most of the competitors. Offered in 3 different sizes, these watches featured uncomplicated onebutton
mechanisms and let the user time one continuous event solely. For instance, the ?Zerograph? with reference number 3462,
featured an ?Oyster? crown and is today an extremely sought after Rolex model. Success however, remained limited, since intermittent
intervals could not be read without resetting the time, but in the late 1930s, technological advances and miniaturization permitted
producing two-button chronographs. A key breakthrough and consequently, a watch could be stopped during timing and then
restarted, where timing left off. During subsequent decades, a distinctive Rolex style evolved gradually and the company continued
using hand-wound ?Valjoux? movements, first the ?23?, then the
?72? and later the ?727? caliber. In 1949, Ref. 5034 finally became
the first Rolex chronograph featuring the signature ?Oyster? case
in combination with 3 round buttons to operate the start, stop
and reset functions, made in only 12 yellow gold and 12 pink gold
versions. Over time, Ref. 5034 evolved into model 6034, which
became Ref. 6234, before it turned into model 6238, the so-called
?Pre-Daytona? chronograph with ?Valjoux 72? movement. Finally in
1960, Rolex decided on a major facelift for its chronograph line
and the ?Cosmograph? wristwatch emerged as a model 6239,
derived from the ?Antimagnetic? line.
After ?World War II?, optimistic America had enjoyed an economic
boom and the nation?s automobile manufactures started producing
powerful and extremely thirsty V6 or V8 engines.
The horsepower race received a further boost, when in 1956 President
Dwight D. Eisenhower?s ?Highway Trust Fund Act? marked
the beginning of building a net of interstate highways across the
country. As automobile designers looked to the skies, sketching
cars with gigantic fins like the 1957 ?Chevrolet Bel Air?, car racing
turned into a major sports attraction. Daytona Beach in Florida
was location of one of the biggest races in automotive history and
the racing community embraced chronograph watches as useful
tools in calculating average lap speed.
In 1961, Rolex released a similar model to Ref. 6239, the 6241 and
soon, both wristwatches became known as ?Daytona? watches,
ever growing in popularity since. Initially, Rolex offered a choice
of dial configurations and one particular one, the ?exotic dial?, is
known today as the ?Paul Newman?, a term never used officially by
Rolex. Such dials featured either cream (with black registers) or
black (with white registers) colors and within each totalisator
square markers.
These manually wound chronographs had stainless steel non-
?Oyster? cases, non-screwed-down round pushers with internal
gaskets as their sole sealing mechanism and 6 mm. large ?Twinlock?
crowns. Quickly, they were in great demand, principally amongst
Italian watch aficionados.
(Interestingly, movie star Paul Newman doesn?t remember wearing a
Rolex ?Daytona? in the famous film ?Winning? and his first ?Daytona?
wristwatch, which appears being a Ref. 6263, was a gift from wife
Joanne Woodward, when Newman started a professional racing
career in 1972).
Major change occurred in the late 1970s, when Rolex introduced reference number 6263, the first ?Cosmograph? with water-resistant
pushbuttons, which prevented users pressing the pushers whilst submerged in water and the locking feature prohibited inadvertent
chronograph activation as well. Ref. 6263 was water-resistant to 50 meters, but during a 10 year period its depth rating increased to
100 meters. Unusual fact, caliber quality depended on the case material and movements in stainless steel chronographs were not
timed to chronometer standards, a privilege reserved exclusively for the 18K gold versions.
In 1988, Rolex released a new incarnation of its success model and a red ?Daytona? print graced the novelty?s dial. The firm abandoned
the ?Valjoux? workhorse in favor of an automatic Zenith ?400/El Primero? caliber with excellent reputation, an integrated mechanical
movement with column wheel governing all chronograph functions. Rolex modified this engine and named it Cal. 4030, amongst the
changes a lower frequency of 28,800 hourly vibrations instead of 36,000 and of course, a free-sprung ?Microstella? balance. The stainlesssteel
?Daytona?, Ref. 16520, turned into one of the most popular, yet hardest to get chronographs on the market and limited production
quantities indicated that the Geneva manufacturer played expertly the marketing game and understood precisely, how to nourish this
officially certified chronometer, which by now was an iconic classic. Versions in 18K yellow gold (1991) or in a steel/gold combination
(1992) followed and concurrently in the collector?s market, prices for high-quality vintage ?Cosmograph? models began skyrocketing
as American and Japanese watch aficionados caught on.
Since horology?s victorious mid-1980s renaissance, collectors? tastes have diversified and the Swiss watch industry undertook transformation:
As a result, increasing numbers of manufacturers decided creating exclusive high-end movements and the use of ?Zenith?
calibers in Rolex chronographs was met with snobbish attitudes. Thus and for strategic reasons (decreasing its dependency on suppliers),
Rolex's latest addition to the ?Daytona? whirl was launched at the 2000 Basel fair, denominated with reference number 116520 and
powered by Cal. 4130, a brand-new and entirely different horological motorization developed by Rolex, which replaced the proven
Zenith ?El Primero?-based caliber, thus ending an over decade-old association. The replacement was definitely more exclusive,
comprised lesser components than conventional chronograph calibers and according to company watchmakers also more economical to
service, although the ?Daytona? model changed little in visual appearance.
In 1995 Paul Newman, the world-famous film actor won the ?GT1 Class? competition in the Rolex ?24 Hours of Daytona? race.
The champion was presented with a white-dialed ?Cosmograph Daytona? chronometer, Ref. 16520 in stainless steel and his reward
featured a case back engraving:
'Rolex 24 H. at Daytona - Paul Newman - Rolex Motorsport?s Man of the Year - 1995'.
In his usual fashion, the generous movie star donated this commemorative wristwatch to Antiquorum?s ?Famous Faces? New York charity
auction in 1999: After fierce bidding, when the gavel fell, this symbol of celebrity plus Rolex memorabilia far exceeded its pre-auction
estimate and sold for astounding $39,000.
In retrospect and over the years, the ?Cosmograph? developed in typical Rolex fashion with moderate short-term improvements, yet
significant advances in the long run, including optimization of the steel and precious metal bracelets or an increase in the model?s
water-resistance. Today, the ?Cosmograph Daytona? chronometer chronograph with its tachometer-engraved bezel, particularly in the
stainless steel version, is a wristwatch in its own class:
A rare trophy awarded to the accomplished sportsman, coveted collectible to the Rolex enthusiast and object of desire.
The reference 3055 was first released in the 1930s with olive button chronograph and it was thereafter re-launched in
the 1950s with the same reference and square button chronograph. In period advertising for this reference Rolex
proclaimed it as the smallest chronograph in the world. It was available in stainless steel at a cost of 1,025 Lire or in 18K
yellow or pink gold for 2,000 Lire. In the same advertisement a Rolex 18K gold chronograph pocket watch was priced
at 1,920 Lire.