Important Collectors' Wristwatches, P...

New York, Jun 10, 2010

LOT 320

Rolex, Ref. 1680, Black Dial, Meter First Rolex, ?Oyster Perpetual Date, Submariner, 200 m = 660 ft, Superlative Chronometer, Officially Certified,? case No. 2821924, Ref. 1680. Made in 1970. Very fine and very rare, center seconds, self-winding, water-resistant, 18K yellow gold diver?s wristwatch with an 18K yellow gold Fliplock Oyster bracelet.

USD 15,000 - 20,000

EUR 12,000 - 16,000 / CHF 17,000 - 22,000

Sold: USD 25,200

C. Three-body, polished and brushed, screwed-down case back and crown, graduated bi-directional revolving black bezel for the decompression times, Triplock winding-crown protected by the crown guard, crystal with cyclops lens. D. Black with luminous yellow gold round, triangular and baton indexes, outer minute track, aperture for the date. Luminous yellow gold skeleton hands. M. Cal. 1570, rhodium-plated, 26 jewels, straight-line lever escapement, monometallic balance adjusted to 5 positions and temperature, free-sprung self-compensating Breguet balance spring, Microstella regulating screws, hack mechanism. Dial, case and movement signed. Diam. 40 mm. Thickness 14 mm. Approx. overall length 205 mm.


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Grading System
Grade: AAA

Excellent
Case: 9

Scratched
Movement: 2*

Very good

Overhaul recommended, at buyer's expense
Dial: 3-01

Good

HANDS Original

Notes

Launched in 1969 and available in either stainless steel or all 18k yellow gold the Rolex Submariner Date, reference 1680, initially had the depth printed on the dial with the European metric system (200m) as the prominent rating followed by the Imperial system (660ft). As the US market increased to become the largest single purchaser Rolex Geneva amended the dials on both the gold and steel versions to accommodate the US Imperial system by placing the 660ft first. It is believed that Rolex changed the depth rating to the Imperial standard in 1971 while dials already printed in metric continued to be used until 1972. Ref.1680 Submariners in gold with metric dials are exceptionally rare, according to our research no other example has appeared at auction in recent years.