Important Modern & Vintage Timepieces

Monaco, Dec 12, 2025

LOT 151

ROLEX, SWITZERLAND, REF. 1016, EXPLORER 1 GILT DIAL, CHAPTER RING STAINLESS STEEL

EUR 6,000 - 12,000

CHF 5,600 - 11,200 / HKD 55,000 - 110,000 / USD 7,000 - 14,000 / JPY 1,090,000 - 2,180,000

A fine and rare stainless steel self-winding wristwatch with gilt dial, chapter ring and center second


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Grading System
Grade: AA

Very good

Case: 2-8

Very good

Slightly scratched

Movement: 2 *
Dial: 2-01-10

Very good

HANDS Original

Patinated

Brand Rolex, Switzerland

Model Explorer 1 gilt dial, chapter ring stainless steel

Reference 1016

Year 1965

Movement No. D15231

Case No. 1284978

Bracelet Rolex stainless steel oyster riveted ref. 7206, end link: 58 with deployant clasp stamp 3.69. Total overall length: 185 mm

Diameter 36 mm

Caliber 1560, 26 Jewels

Signature Dial, case and movement

Notes

One of the most iconic tool watches ever created, the Rolex Explorer I reference 1016 occupies a central position in the brand’s history, the model designed to accompany human exploration at its most extreme. The present example, dating from 1965, features one of the most coveted configurations of the early Explorer era: the glossy gilt dial with gilt printing and a prominent chapter ring, capturing the unmistakable aesthetics that defined the transitional mid-1960s production.

The lacquered gilt exclamation point dial is remarkably well preserved, exhibiting deep gloss and crisp printing with no visible defects to the gilt text. The tritium luminous markers have aged to a stunning pumpkin-colored patina,perfectly matching the hands and enhancing the warm, vintage character of the watch. The iconic 3-6-9 Explorer layoutis showcased at its finest here: pure purpose, absolute clarity, and enduring design beauty.

Powered by the chronometer-rated automatic calibre 1560, the movement is housed within the robust stainless-steel Oyster case whose proportions remain strong and well-defined. The smooth bezel reinforces the Explorer’s heritage as a utilitarian instrument, engineered for extreme environments yet discreetly refined for everyday wear.

Bearing serial number 1’284’978, this example aligns precisely with 1965 production, one of the most desirable periods for the early gilt-chapter-ring 1016, produced only for a short window before Rolex transitioned to matte dials and white printing.

A rare and exceptionally charismatic Explorer I, uniting a glossy gilt chapter-ring dial and a beautiful tritium patina, a highly collectible configuration that embodies the golden era of Rolex tool-watch innovation. A significant and deeply attractive piece for the discerning connoisseur.